# Flow *PIC*

The following was originally intended in response to Havard’s response to something I posted, his response was as follows.>>> Doesn’t meen that water moves with the wave.>>> A circle makes perfect sense. They move inward as they lay in the > shoreward downhill side and move outward on the seaward downhill side > after the wave passes. Maybe something else is going on as well, but it’s > not flow. A wave is not a flow.>>> regards,>>> Håvard A wave is flow. Here’s a drawing of water being forced through the cracks of a dock as a wave passes underneath it. Think of a surfboard held in place by the weight of the surfer/surfboard, i.e. gravity. A wave is water in motion, water in motion is flow. I thought, some clarification of what I meant, or is meant by flow was appropriate. This posting really isn’t meant to start a new thread.

The following was originally intended in response to Havard’s response to > something I posted, his response was as follows.>>> A wave is flow.>>> Here’s a drawing of water being forced through the cracks of a dock as a > wave passes underneath it.>>> Think of a surfboard held in place by the weight of the surfer/surfboard, > i.e. gravity.>>> A wave is water in motion, water in motion is flow.>>> I thought, some clarification of what I meant, or is meant by flow was > appropriate. Water is displaced by wave action. But, only to a limited degree. Waves are circular bands of energy that move through the aquious medium we know as the ocean. But, water does not flow in a continous path from their origins to their termination. As these bands of energ stack upon them selves from the resistance they feel from the rise of the shore contour, these bands of energy slow their forward momentum and increase their vertical vector. Ultimately, gravity over comes the vertical vector. But, since there is still a substantial forward momentum the wave pitches and breaks. So, a beter way to describe the displacement of water caused by wave action would be splash rather than flow. > This posting really isn’t meant to start a new thread.

The following was originally intended in response to Havard’s response to > something I posted, his response was as follows.>>> A wave is flow.>>> Here’s a drawing of water being forced through the cracks of a dock as a > wave passes underneath it.>>> Think of a surfboard held in place by the weight of the surfer/surfboard, > i.e. gravity.>>> A wave is water in motion, water in motion is flow.>>> I thought, some clarification of what I meant, or is meant by flow was > appropriate.>>> This posting really isn’t meant to start a new thread. this may be a gross over simplification, but can’t we look at a wave as a “perpetual” inclined plane, providing potential energy for a surfboard to move downward? a wave definitely is water in motion, but the act of surfing is the relation of the board to the wave, yes?..or?

this may be a gross over simplification, but can’t we look at a wave as a > “perpetual” inclined plane, providing potential energy for a > surfboard to move downward? a wave definitely is water in motion, but the > act of surfing is the relation of the board to the wave, yes?..or? surfing is unique in that it is performed in and around that boundary where potential energy(the wall) is transformed into kinetic energy(the area where the lip forms the tube). cool place to be. jim dunlop

The following was originally intended in response to Havard’s response to > something I posted, his response was as follows.>>> A wave is flow. No it’s not. Pick up that physics book again. Or try this: Take a carpet and grab it with two hands at the short end. Now move your hands up and down. See the nice waves form? Waves in water moves much in the same way. Also for the sake of argument of gravity powering the surfer: put a ball on the carpet. Watch it stay at the front of a wave and move with it(I know you can do it if you try). Surf may be a flow. regards, Håvard

No it’s not. Pick up that physics book again.>>> Or try this: Take a carpet and grab it with two hands at the short end. > Now move your hands up and down. See the nice waves form? Waves in water > moves much in the same way. Also for the sake of argument of gravity > powering the surfer: put a ball on the carpet. Watch it stay at the front > of a wave and move with it(I know you can do it if you try).>>> Surf may be a flow.>>> regards,>>> Håvard Sounds like you’ve got some interesting ideas. Perhaps you should start a thread and explain things from your unique non-flow perspective. Kevin