I’m not sure what you are trying to say and don’t feel like reading again to attempt to decypher so I will just assume that you want to hear this… Tape off your board up before hand and do your color work and then glass as normal. You can free lap if you want just be careful not to gring into your color work.
Do the foam stain on the deck, then glass it first to seal it all and not risk the tape messing up your color work. Tape it off for your cutlap then glass the bottom.
It is better to do your cutlap first then do the acrylic stain afterwards. Taping over a foam stain tends to pull up some paint. I have had better luck doing a resin foam stain and taping over it, but it will take the same amount of time to cure as a cutlap. Either way you are looking at the same amount of time. If you kick your cutlap hot enough you should be able to grind the lap and do your inlay about 6-8 hours afterwards.
I did this by doing the bottom / rails (cut-lap) lam with yellow first, then taping off the rails and doing the deck lam with epoxy resin swirl second. It worked fine for me, I’m sure there are other ways, as you mention.
About foam stain: I think it’s just latex house paint?but I’ll ask my glasser though.anyhow, It’s a cost effective alternative to resin swirl. I think it’s tons better than a clear board bcuz its not going to yellow.
I thought a proper foam stain was done with resin,and a paint job was exactly that… a paint job lol
heres my first one ,also first resin tint i ever done, for my girlfriends fish. resin tint cut lap, then resin foam stain with clear deck lam freelapped.
If my downloads work ok, you should be seeing some examples of custom order paint jobs. These were glassed with free laps or cut laps, as in the case of the purple board. You should follow what Austin said, do the bottom glass/cut lap first, sand the laps, then do the paint work on the deck and freelap the deck. You probably know that glassing the deck first could substantially alter the rocker. Here’s a couple of hints that might make your job go better, just my 2c… First don’t forget to use white to seperate colors if you want a more spaced out design. (you get the idea from what Mark said on the vid). Second, just like with resin, whatever hits the foam first is the primary color. If you want a quicker dry time use less paint and try to put it on with a thicker flat nozzle. (I’ve used thick plastic zip bags with a corner cut off to do this but that requires a bit of experience to get it right) Wipe your squeege often too so you don’t muddy up the color. You may have figured a lot of this out already so good luck and am looking forward to the pics!
PS: For the poster who doesn’t do these often, even with paint, the foam will eventually yellow and shift the color of the artwork.