Sliverback, why would you want to do this? I’m not sure where pauluk is getting his information, but it is normaly done by just mixing up your tint, in the resin without any MEKP, filter it through a pair of pantyhose, and run a test shot. If it is what you what, go for it. Use your tinted Lam resin to lay down your glass. The extra step of laying down some lam resin, not only is an extra step but it will make for a poor bond between the shaped blank and the glass. I think you would be asking for a delam.
"Silverback, why would you want to do this? " Sorry, I hope I’m not butting in here… for me, [and this is only me, obviously] three or four different scenarios come to mind : - 1.for a ‘swirly’ tint, so it soaks into the foam and ‘stays put’ when the squeegee with [clear] lam is applied over the glass. [I’ve tried this on some fins] 2. for a ‘3D’ effect , if the glass is squeegeed lightly with a second colour tint. 3. when using PIGMENT, so the stringer can be masking taped [then tape removed , so the stringer will be visible when the board is glassed. [I’ve done this] 4. if, like me , you’re doing your first tint / swirl / pigmented board, and feel you’ll need extra time to ‘get it right’ before laminating the glass. Recently , I did a spray, then flicked pigmented resin up and down the board , on the foam. Waited a full day before glassing the board. [ I will need to get back to you in about six months or so regarding the delam issue.] It was a free, thick blank. I used double layer 6oz on the deck, 1 layer 6oz on the bottom. [A 5’7 “stubbie” - single fin ]. Yes, it will be a bit heavier, but I’m used to heavier boards, I quite like them on these howling offshore days we get in winter here. [I’m only light - 145lbs, so the bit of extra weight MIGHT [?] help me get onto the waves better, is my thinking…I’ll soon find out, I guess !] anyway, I hope this helps in some way … ‘chip’
I’ve done foam stains with pigmented lam resin as well and never had a problem with delams. Laminating resin over laminating resin is a pretty safe bet. Generally the weak spot is the top layer of resin soaked foam. Dry laminations kicked fast don’t allow time for resin to soak in creating a micro layer (weak) of saturated foam. Look inside a piece of glass that has been removed from a board - there’s a layer of foam still stuck to the glass.
Howzit pauluk, I’ve done quite a few resin tints or pigment on blanks and no problem with delam,plus it seals the blank to prevent blowing gas and you can do them with UV resin. Aloha, Kokua