HI EVERYBODY…WELL I GUESS I DONT GET IT BECAUSE I GAVE THE FOLDED 40 GRIT A TRY ON A 8’3(DECK/RAIL ARC AREA) ALL I REALLY GOT WAS SOME REAL DEEP SCRATCHES. HOW DOES THIS HANDTOOL SAVE ANY TIME? HOW DOES IT KNOCK OFF THE HIGHS WHEN ITS ONLY 2.5" WIDE. IS IT THE WAY ITS HELD(ANGLE) AND SPEED ITS RACKING THIS AREA? IS A 80 GRIT SCREEN W/SPONGE BACK JUST AS ACCURATE AND REMOVE AS MUCH MATERIAL WITH LONG FAST STROKES? I’VE NEVER SHAPED 5-8 BOARDS A DAY AND AM IN AWE OF YOU GUYS WHO BUST ASS WITH THIS VOLUME. WITH THE CLOSE TOLERANCE BLANKS AVAILABLE NOW SEEMS LIKE THIS ISN’T A NESSESSARY STEP ANYMORE. THANKS.
Take a piece of 40 grit and spread some disc adhesive on the back then fold top to bottom and crease. You will then have a two sided piece of 40 grit that is 5 1/2 by 8 1/2. When the glue dries the paper will be stiff but still flexible and, after a few uses on the rails, will conform to your favorite rail shape. To use, hold in the palm of your hand and, with little more than the weight of the paper, just enough force to make the paper move along the blank, make a few long, even passes from one end of the rail to the other. It works best for me when one corner of the paper is resting in my thumb and the thumb is being used as sort of a guide along the lowest rail band. Then the other fingers are spread out along the rest of the rail. I usually use the 40 grit after planing my rails and blending the bands slightly with a surform.>>> HI EVERYBODY…WELL I GUESS I DONT GET IT BECAUSE I GAVE THE FOLDED 40 > GRIT A TRY ON A 8’3(DECK/RAIL ARC AREA) ALL I REALLY GOT WAS SOME REAL > DEEP SCRATCHES. HOW DOES THIS HANDTOOL SAVE ANY TIME? HOW DOES IT KNOCK > OFF THE HIGHS WHEN ITS ONLY 2.5" WIDE. IS IT THE WAY ITS HELD(ANGLE) > AND SPEED ITS RACKING THIS AREA? IS A 80 GRIT SCREEN W/SPONGE BACK JUST AS > ACCURATE AND REMOVE AS MUCH MATERIAL WITH LONG FAST STROKES? I’VE NEVER > SHAPED 5-8 BOARDS A DAY AND AM IN AWE OF YOU GUYS WHO BUST ASS WITH THIS > VOLUME. WITH THE CLOSE TOLERANCE BLANKS AVAILABLE NOW SEEMS LIKE THIS > ISN’T A NESSESSARY STEP ANYMORE. THANKS.
Take a piece of 40 grit and spread some disc adhesive on the back then > fold top to bottom and crease. You will then have a two sided piece of 40 > grit that is 5 1/2 by 8 1/2. When the glue dries the paper will be stiff > but still flexible and, after a few uses on the rails, will conform to > your favorite rail shape. To use, hold in the palm of your hand and, with > little more than the weight of the paper, just enough force to make the > paper move along the blank, make a few long, even passes from one end of > the rail to the other. It works best for me when one corner of the paper > is resting in my thumb and the thumb is being used as sort of a guide > along the lowest rail band. Then the other fingers are spread out along > the rest of the rail. I usually use the 40 grit after planing my rails and > blending the bands slightly with a surform. THANKS, I’LL GIVE IT A TRY THIS WEEKEND ON MY 9’4" NOSERIDER! ANY REASON TO ALSO HAVE A 60 GRIT FOLDED TO REDUCE POSSIBLE DEEP SCRATCHES? ALSO IS IT WORTH IT TO REMOVE BOTTOM FOAM(THICKNESS) BEFORE TEMPLETING TO MINIMISE RAIL SAWING ERRORS. I’VE NEVER DONE IT BUT I KNOW PRO’S THAT DO! THANKS, ITS JUST A PASSION NOT A BUSINESS FOR ME…
Unless the bottom of the blank has a lot of shape in it already and needs to be flattened some, I prefer templating and cutting out the surfboard before doing anything with my planer. I used to skin the bottom before templating and cutting but found that the softer foam of the skinned bottom and the crust on the deck weren’t consistent which set up the potential for a wavering rail. Spence
Unless the bottom of the blank has a lot of shape in it already and needs > to be flattened some, I prefer templating and cutting out the surfboard > before doing anything with my planer. I used to skin the bottom before > templating and cutting but found that the softer foam of the skinned > bottom and the crust on the deck weren’t consistent which set up the > potential for a wavering rail.>>> Spence I allways skin both the top and bottom and thin and rocker the nose and tail before templating. I have hated cleaning up plan shapes while the blank is still super thick and/or the crust is still on it. If you take your piece of folded paper and sand a scrap of 2x4 first to take the really gnarly grit off, it won’t scratch so deep. Like Spence says, once it is broken in, it will conform to your hand perfectly and you won’t have to lean on it to get the work done. Jim