I’ve heard mention that laps should be treated as “sections” when tucking under and the nose and tail should be treated a little differently as well. Anyone care to elaborate?
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I’ve heard mention that laps should be treated as “sections” when tucking under and the nose and tail should be treated a little differently as well. Anyone care to elaborate?
See my mention of split laps and stagger laps in the stringrless longboard thread.
Cheers. Also when you stagger your laps are you cutting your first lap the longest as opposed to shortest?
I’ve done it both ways…but cutting the first layer longer will leave the second layer shorter and avoids sanding thru the top layer once glassed. Sure, it’s easier to ‘contain’ the cloth doing it in reverse, but technically it’s structuurally better to go longer first and shorter lap second for fairing in.
no,no,no…you lay up the first layer and cut to the bottom of rail…lay up the top layer and trim about 1"to1"1/2"pass the bottom of rail. do a good lay up ,let it kick ,hot coat the deck. knock down the lap a little on the bottom, then paint the lap with a light coat of hot coat,then hot coat the bottom. ET
…No,no, no?
I’m not quite sure what you’re getting at…the question was if you’re stagger lapping as I mentioned in the other thread could he (instead) glass the bottom with a split lap rail and regular lap or…a shorter overlap underneath a longer lap from bottom to deck.
I responded with "Yes, but technically having the shorter lap on the top layer eliminates the possibility of sanding away the top layer of glass over that lap (especially if you choose to stretch 4 oz over a 6 oz underlayer. He also had stated that he thought that it would be okay to do it that way (with the shorter lap cut under the longer lap cut) when laying up from the bottom to the deck…well, yeah…the usual glassing technique IS to layup the bottom first unless you are doing what we call a reverse layup…like a tinted or pigmented deck wrapping to a taped cut lap on the bottom. BUT I was not talkin about that in the original thread…which it appears that you hadn’t read.
As a quickie reference to that I was talking about using staggerlapping on stringerless EPS longboards. (See stringerless longboards thread). If I cut it as you suggest, the stingerless boards would be weakened at the rails and experience a greater degree of flex aka the toilet paper roll test…I’m sure you’re familiar with the concept?
I also emphasized the whole idea of keeping the glassing schedules equal on top and bottom so that the stringerless boards flex equally thereby reducing the chance of breaking. There are quite a few in Swaylocks that regularly do a lighter schedule on their bottoms than on their deck glass…for instance a 6/4 or 4/4 bottom with 6/6 deck. I don’t do that, if I have a 6/4 bottom I do a 6/4 deck. In the case of stringerless longboards, the fulcrum is so much longer (and vulnerable) I make a point of using wide staggerlapped Warp glass on both top and bottom. I also use additional Warp glass along the rails. By adding the perimeter glass (a somewhat parabolic approach) I get the degree of stiffness I desire and the resistance to breakage where I need it.
Boards break because the bottom stretches and the deck buckles. In another thread somewhere in Sway’s a guy address breakage and has it completely backwards. There are quite a few DIY’ers and hobbyists that are on this site. So it is important to point out to them that especially w/out an I Beam (stringer) configuration, the thinnest part of the board (rails) is the most prone to breakage.
If you have been in the industry for 40 years then you realize this as purely academic and a given within our business…but I’m still surprised at some of the things I take as ‘givens’ that are new to others.
So that’s all we were talking about…these were epoxies with two layers on the bottom and two layers on the deck. 9’x21’2-5/8" that weigh 9.6 lbs. And yes we would hotcoat the deck then hotcoat the bottoms after squeegeeing and/or filing the untaped (or taped) deck hotcoat, much like PU glassjobs.
…thanks for your input, however, I have 40 years into board cnstruction with both polyester and epoxy…unlike quite a few guys out there that epoxy is some new mysterious approach.
Happy New Year!
SM…thanks for the nod…for fun check out this site that some guys gave me a nod
http://www.goletasurfing.com/fowler.html
Long May You Ride!