How often do you surf solo? (I would think quite a bit up there.) How important has this been in following your own line? (Both in your designs and your surfing.) Thanks for sharing.
numbnuts, Geez, man… thats a personal question. Ha ha! Ive surfed for most of my adult life from one to several days a week, contingient upon ocean and health conditions. Where I live the waves seldom ever drop much below 3 feet. If a surfer has lived here a while, has the right equipment, knows about where and when to go, plus having the time to hunt, theres almost always somewhere to find a decent, uncrowded wave with some power. For 45 years, Ive never lived more than a short walk from the sea. But in the last few years Ive accumulated a number of injuries that have finally taken me out of the water... lower back/nerve damage, torn left bicep/ligaments, sprain/hairline fracture of left ankle, broken right leg and ankle, lung, dental and eye damage, and the onset of arthritis. Our health insurance ended. Unfortunately these things also contributed to the demise of my primary trade and business, ending 30+ years of work as a specialized artisan. A fair bit of stress on several levels... physically, mentally, financially. In the summer of 2000, from out of these setbacks, I began Neumatic Surfcraft. By the grace of God, new doors opened, and today I have another vocation- actually the progression of an avocation which began in the 1970s… the development of advanced, custom surf mats. I`m also much closer to being back in the water than I was 3 years ago. Although I draw insight from a wide variety of sources- both surfing and non-surfing- including my multitude of failures… George Greenough and Tom Morey have continued to be very significant influences. Dale
heide from Indiana stopped by today she wants to surf badly I gave her your e-mail and web site addressand encouraged her to contact you …the girl is a conpetent swimmer I.M. back stroke and long distance freestyle… beware I told her to Just cut you a check and get on the list and let me know when it arrives an Ill take her gnittam…agent ambrose on the fund raising trail
Agent Ambrose your country thanks you for your covert service. But must you always speak in black ops code? On the fund raising trail ???
agent ambrose please tell what kind of types-sizes waves that you go gnittam on your isle. is your elcihev elbbub only to be ridden upon small junk combers?
like a child at a buffet I questmoe Jello than I wiill be able to finish…big is scary I guess Ive surfed 5-6’tops to get realy over my head…ive got big feet they got fins on so thats about 10 faces high or about three stams on end …new scale? maybe 4 stams but im just a stam kook I know I can access more ooooooooooooooooohaaaaaaaaaa!!! another bitchin saturday stam ambrose…sunday I rode the 37 lb. 11’er alone with surf larve
Many thanks Agent Ambrose! How are covert surf-ops agents Jimmy R. and David M.?