Hi I was asked to makea surfboard with this resin tint job.I have experience in glassing surfboards but I’ve never did this before.I am thinking to proceed this way:
1)stick masking tape on deck
2) lay down a 6oz cloth on bottom
3) mask hlf of the stringer tail and nose on deck
4)glass first colour and wait it gels and cut the lap on the deck stringer
5)tape other half of stringer on deck and glass second colour
6)repeat it all for deck lamination
7) glass a clear 4 oz cloth on deck
Is it the right procedure?
Thanks in advance
Prepare board for a normal cut lap.
Pour your first color on the side you want it to be on getting the laps wet and working the resin into the board.
Pour second color on the other side repeating same process.
Finish with a little clear resin on the board to make sure it isn’t too dry and tuck your laps.
As long as you can control where your resin goes with your squeegee it’s actually very easy.
Edit: Pour the darker color first to reduce the amount of bleed over. In the example given I would do the purple first then the green.
The reason I don’t think the deck is a foam stain is because of the additional saturation on the rails/lap line, which will normally extend to both sides of the board. i don’t see how you would get that without there being additional layers of resin tint building up over the rails.
The split bi-color takes a steady hand and a low rack really helps.
It helps to be able to look down on the stringer as you gently nudge resin to its center.
The laps at tips of nose and tail need to be pre trimmed to come close to stringer and not wind up with a big overlap of the 2 or more colors.
A real acid test for a clear free lapper
Everything is done in one shot. Use more resin than you think you should use. Squeegee from Stringer to rails.
You can also ask a friend to help you, you take one side while he takes the other so you don’t have to stress out about the resin kicking while you are still working on one side ;). Or use UV resin so you have all the time you need to do it by yourself.
I’ve Just glassed the bottom and looks Pretty cool.blue and torquoise like i was asked to make it.I wet the cloth of the half stringer part with a brush and came out very precise. I filtered the pic to show better the result ad this neon light doesnt show colours properly when resina is wet
Actually could be done either way if taped properly at the cutlap. But most likely a resin tint. Using the brush at the stringer was smart. But I can’t tell much from your photo. Doesn’t even look anything like the Lost. Probably just a poor photo. Putting down the clear first is key for a visible and clear stringer separation.
It’s very difficile to take pics with wet resin ,but i can post more when i’ll glass the deck. The board is a replica of the Lost paddle jumper RP.the First pic i posted was Just to give an idea of the glassing technique required and not about the kind of board or colours
one trick i got shown was to use baking paper. mist the back of it and tack it onto the glass, then you can just laminate over it protecting the area you don’t want the colour to hit. once your finished just pull the paper up and laminate the other side.
…regarding expert glassers; the guy who did that board is one of the best ever glassers, not too many years in the industry but top it up all in few years. He s from France and when that board was done he worked in a tandem with another French guy. Very artistic and true inspired (then many others are following his path) laminations.
In this case that not so perfect middle joint was made on purpose.
-Hey McDing, in this case you are wrong; if you put clear resin in the middle you would fuck up the joint.
This and most are tints. You can do it as a tint only job or you can do the tint but firstly you can add (depends on the deepness of color wanted) a free foam stain with not so much of MEKP, then proceed with the normal tint.
I do different hybrids laminations; tints with pigments, clears with tints; pigments with airbrushing; pigments with bamboo; tints with fabrics; with gold leaf etc
