Pictures come from another post I made.
I can now speek a bit more about the board because I could surf it yesterday.
That board was made for a friend of mine.
He’s young (20 and I’m 35), he’s light (65kg and I’m 80kg) and h’es a bit smaller than I am (1,75m and me 1,83m)… well we’re quite different.
I made the board for him as he wanted it to be. It’s a 5’11" x 18"3/4 x 2"1/2. Nice size for him but supposed to be a bit small for me. But I shaped the board with foam every where and it was easy to paddle it for me.
Here is how it happened.
December 18th meant cold and sunny pre-winter morning. On the road to the beach, temperature was around -1 or -2°c…
Looking at first glance, the spot was clean ang gave 1m to 1m++ opening waves, rights and lefts. It was a friendly session… about 10 of us, all friends went surfing yesterday.
No one came to surf except us 10 and the waves came often enough so everyone could catch all the waves he wanted.
Really nice situation.
Small but lovely and clean waves, friends, sun, no panic…
I spent the first half of the session surfing my classic performance shortboard (Toy - shaper Didier Damestoy - 6’2" x 18"3/4 x 2"1/2 - roundtail - light rocker - killer board) and changed after 1h.
Then I grabbed the little darkgrey bonzer5.
The time to put the leash on and comes the most beautyfull right hander of the day: 1m20, long shoulder, really glassy face, hollow and fast… Happiness is so simple at times… Well, I paddle (easy) the board takes the wave and I stand up instantly.
Every thing goes perfect.
I find the place where to put my feet and start going down the line.
As I go on and on on the wave, I start pushing to make pore speed, make larger and larger turns, the board follows my wills, I cut bak, take speed again, go through sections…
Wouuuush, that first wave was… the cause of one of the most important “surfing erection” i had for monthes.
After that killer wave, other came, smaller but still nice. And the board kept satisfying me. Easy to turn, easier again to create speed, magic to create stoke.
I fell in love with that machine.
I can say I was proud because I’m the one who dared to create it.
Yesterday, I was a happy man.
Surf is such a powerfull stoke.
I want more.
The first Bonzer5 I made:
Certainly perfectible but I improved a lot my glassing/sanding skills on that one.
