6’2 x 12 3/4N x 20 x 15T x 2 1/2
Nose rocker is 5 1/8
Tail rocker is 2 1/8
I used the 66EA blank in blue density with grey colored foam from USBlanks.
The foam is supposed to be grey but looks purple in person… We’ll see how it looks after glassing.
Main fins will be 5 3/4" ish tall using Griffin’s template set at about 8" from the tail and 1 1/4" off the rail.
Canards will be 3 1/2" ish tall using Jobson’s canard template set parallel to the mains with about 3/8" overlap iirc.
The canard and the main have about 1 1/4" between them iirc.
Using 4WFS boxes so I will have some wiggle room.
This one has a slight single starting in the entry, deepest between the feet, fading to flat at the fins.
Thanks Huck…
Yep it’s gonna get 4+4 deck and 4 bottom with a fin patch. All S glass using epoxy…
Hoping to start glassing tomorrow evening and finish up by Wed afternoon…
After that I’m gonna make the fins… I am gonna make some standard G10 fins just to get this board in the water… After that, I have some ideas for making some foam core fins.
This craft looks clean. I have seen some ugly twins out there but this one looks right. cant wait to see more pics. #19 is this only your 19th board ever made?
How are the 4way fins? I wanted to try them years ago, but for some strange reason the distributor never bothered to get them to me. I always wanted a tow adjustment added to the mix.
It would be interesting to have something that allows inward movement and tow adjustment to see how moving the fin in from the rail affects the performance. Having to sand off and reset fins is a lot of hassle.
I like the 4WFS boxes a lot! … I haven’t used any of their fins so I cannot comment on those…
The 5/16 G10 fits the boxes really well… I made the mistake of thinning the tabs on a set of fins and that set constantly wobbled. I added some black electrical tape to the tabs and it fixed the problem.
I now know that the fins need to be snug in the boxes BEFORE tightening the screws.
Adjusting cant and toe on a recent board helped a ton!
Board went from barely rideable to really good.
I heard that there used to be a California distributor/rep but he/she no longer does it so I wonder if you were contacting them around the time that they were getting out of it?
I just got a bunch of Red-X boxes for the EPS foam I have. I figure that the boxes are about the strongest around with the way they go through the board. CMP used to put them in boards, so I had a couple with them and I scored several sets of fins a while ago as backups.
I also ordered several FCS fusion sets for their under the lam build, but I haven’t tried them yet.
I bought a couple of sets of the FCS H2 style fins and I use zero cant inserts for the sides. I like them that way. Not sure what 4-Way tabs are but that would open a whole new world for those fins playing with both tow and cant.
Back in the day, we had one board. If we had a box we could move the fin around or change the fin and have a completely different setup. Just imagine if we could do that to the rocker. Make it flatter for smaller days and dial it up for the heavy days.
If I remember correctly, a while back Herb did side shear tests with all the major boxes at the time. RedX won by a lot.
I like FCS fusion boxes. If I wasn’t using 4WFS, I would still be using Fusion…
Lots of folks like those H2 fins. I have heard lots of good things… they have cant built in to the base yeah?
We live in a great time for fin experimenting. My goal is to get my twinzer placement, size, and template DIALED and then do glassons for my daily-driver
The H2 fins have added cant to make it about 11 degrees (I think). When I stuck them into an FCS box board I had, it was crazy. They were sticking out the side so much, I knew I was going to get hurt. That’s when the light bulb went on and I made a tri-fin board with proboxes then put in zero degree inserts. Before that I was using long single fin center boxes. I haven’t tried the board with other inserts, it may work even better.
You liking the twinzer style? I find that I need something closer the center to hold better. Maybe I just need to change my stance, but that’s easier said than done. This guy I know rips on an old school fish, but he’s more nimble and gets really low when he does his cutbacks.
The 4-ways make so much sense for twins and twinzers. You can mess with the tow and cant and use traditional fin placement.
I wonder why FCS decided to add can’t to those fins… isn’t it great when you figure out what works for you!!!
I have been really stoked on the twinzer thing for just over a year now. No doubt, it has improved my surfing. I have never been this excited about a board. The guys over at Surfermag.com were really generous with fin info and helped me get started with my placement numbers. The fins are pushed further back than most folks that make twinzers. Trailing edges of the main fin is at 8". And, the fins are huge. 5 3/4" tall… I think pushing the fins back makes them less squirrely and holds better. Kinda similar to Griffin’s twin (wich I have never had the pleasure of surfing)… Put it this way, my initial reaction to the twinzer was “a board this loose should not be this fast, have this much drive, and have this much hold”.
Greg let us use a twin for a while, but I didn’t like it. For some reason, I found it too stiff for me. The original 5 fin fish boards he made for Bernie and me are my favorite boards for really good waves. Next to that his hovercraft fits in there for smaller days. Paddles like a much larger board, and with the center fin, it doesn’t slide out.
As I’m getting older, and a lot of times surfing with lots of people around, the mid-lengths are allowing me more chance to get waves.
I was always interested in Hynson’s twinzer and quad, but I never tried one.
