iirc, the colored foam added $10 to the price of the blank… my wife has an airless sprayer, I think I will spray the next one instead
I bought the blue and yellow board either in late '69 or early ‘70. The foam was colored and it was a really cool look. It has texture, just like your board. I got 2 boards colored that way. Several years ago I was re-united with the guy who made it and asked how he did this. He said he thinks he brushed a thinned out colored resin direct to foam. I guess they call it foam stain these days. The board was only 5’6", so I must have been 4’ something.
Hey you post too much
I still think Uncle Bill make a winner with Matt’s board in the middle
triple striggered egg versus my pop out dextra with its 50/50 egg rails and belly bottom
but damn that dextra was indestructable
I miss those waterpolo days when I was like 145lbs and could eat liek a horse and we all wore real men’s short shorts
I picked those lifeguard red ones
Issac Tanaka was so far ahead of his time as well with the boards he made us in the late 60’s early 70’s
Good job Chris
I hope one day to get my mojo back and make some more boards
just got to clean out the garage first and make some room
Hahaha. Get your mojo back. Do it. This is not a rehearsal. The clock is ticking.
All the best
The hard roller is for pressing down, and flattening, wallpaper seams.
That cat is definitely checking out that shape. Seems pretty interested. 1st pic; “Hmm, nice tucked edge”. 2nd pic; “Nice tail/outline too”. Lowel
Rough sanded the board and knocked out some fins yesterday… Gotta add a resin bead around the tail, final sand, and I plan to do something a little different for traction… These fins are the mains in the twinzer setup. They are 5 1/2" tall and are in one of Greg Griffin’s templates. I have some 3 1/2" canards that I will be using. The canards are a shrunken version of Griffin’s template but Lavarat made some canards from Wil Jobson’s canard template and they work MUCH better. So, I will be knocking out some Jobson canards here pretty soon… I also have a couple friends that want some fins… Previously, I used 5 3/4" main fins in my twinzer setup. My thinking is that since this board has a narrower tail, it might need slightly smaller fins… We will see. I will definitely be experimenting with fin size and placement.
Looking fantastic!
Your foils look good but your canards sound way too big. Try 2, 2.5 inches. Cant matters too.
Thanks Keith, I will give that a try.
Have you tried bigger canards?
The 5 3/4 main and 3 1/2 canard that was suggested to me that I ran on my first twinzer felt really good… if the smaller canards feel even better, I will be stoked!
Looking great, Chris. Amen about the freshly hot-coated board. That is a special point in the build process.
I can’t wait to hear the ride report.
Question: With the 4WFS, is the fin base a straight rectangle, or is there any angle/draft necessary?
Also curious what cant you used for the canards in the avocado twinzer, and what you plan to run in this iteration.
Lastly, can someone tell me how to properly pronounce the word “canard”? I’ve never been too sure how to read it.
Canard I French means a$$
Thanks Newschoolblue…
The 4WFS bases that I make are just a straight rectangle.
The fins that you buy from 4WFS have some cant iirc.
When I was emailing with the 4WFS guy, I think he mentioned that there was some cant built into the base so you could get more than 6* if you wanted… Or for boards with concave through the tail.
I have a thruster set so I can double check to make sure.
I will have to double check the avocado board… iirc, I used 2* for the mains and 6* for the canards.
On that board, I put too much toe. iirc, it was 1/4".
Those are also the numbers that I ended up at with my fishy twinzer.
On this board, I am gonna start with 2* mains and 6* canards.
1/8" toe on both.
When I built the avocado board, I was paying attention to a thread over on the ERBB about twinzers.
I got to talking with Ghostshaper about twinzer fin sizes and placement.
He had been tinkering with finzers for a while at that point and suggested 5 3/4 mains and 3 1/2 canards. The mains set at 1/8" toe and 2* cant. The canards set parallel and with 6* cant…
So, I printed the fins up at that size and they looked WAY too big. I messaged him back and he confirmed. He even said that one of his buddies had been experimenting with 6" mains and the same size canards and that the report was good… So, I made the fins and took the board up to the Big Sur campout. Everyone who saw the board told me that I was overfinned. Fins are too big. Way too big of fins… But, in the water, it was hands down the BEST board I’ve ever surfed. Lavarat surfed it and liked it too although it was too small for him… Since then, I have made a few more twinzers (a fish, a stepup, and a minigun) and have stuck to those placement numbers on all of them… The fish I was surfing every day and tinkering with the fins a LOT. Seems that the numbers that I got from Ghostshaper were right on… I have learned that changing the cant on the main fin makes a DRAMATIC change in how the board goes. Conclusion, 2* - 0* is best on the mains… Cant on the canards is less noticeable. Toe in can be 1/8" or less, zero even, and it feels great. Anything more than 1/8" and the board becomes a little too loose and loses a touch of drive off the bottom.
I think that the reason this setup can get away with bigger fins is due to the lower cant and toe. When I first started playing with my twinzer fish, I started out with 6* cant and 1/4" toe on the mains just to see what it would feel like… That setup felt TERRIBLE. It felt like I was trying to balance the board on a basketball while surfing. Like someone was shooting the bottom of my board with a water hose right between my feet where the main fins were… I took this to mean too much lift… Dropping the cant and straightening out the toe took that all away… I suppose if I were to use smaller fins, more cant and toe could work because I wouldn’t have as much lift from those smaller fins… I dunno. Like I said, the setup on the avocado board is SO MONEY, I don’t want to deviate too much.
Almost instant speed that will carry through flat spots, responds well to a pump or 2, and holds through roundhouses better than any other board I’ve ever surfed. Plenty of drive and projection whenever you want it. Beat that section, race a wall, project up into a floater. Loose in the best possible way. Lay into a big drivey bottom turn but whenever you want, turn your arc tighter and go up into the lip. Wraparound snaps with that little tweak at the end… This is what I feel with the twinzer setup. I realize that there is no 1 perfect setup or board for everybody but, I am so over the moon stoked on this setup for me… =)
Thanks Grasshopper.
Coming from you, that means a lot.
I dig your work.
I have no idea what the correct pronunciation is…
I say “cuh-nard”
Awesome info, Chris. Much obliged.
Yeah, it’s been a few months, but I’ve read through that twinzer thread on the surferbb. It’s pretty awesome.
I use the seam roller on deckside cutlaps, no more air bubbles. I also tape off at mid rail for each hot coat, avoids those drips on the rail when doing the ‘paint under’ approach with no tape. Eaiser to keep that important bottom rail shape true to shape, but more hot coat steps.