from the desk of the great Favad


A LACK of skills and knowledge

can lead to breaches in the collective wisdoms

there are spot specific

realities for every

yes each and every

specialized surfing equiptment form.

pushing the limits"" of a given form is an ego rush.

modifying specialized equiptment forms is popular

as we here in swayville know quite well.

superman and clark kent came from swayville

before they moved to metropolis city

the looming presence of short sighted wannabeeists

wether they pursue fortune or fame

will be with us till the human genome

has space migrated or becomes extict

on this planet.

the exactitude of applying these

super uncontrol projectiles

is a magnum responsibility.

short how to lists withstanding

the leaarning curve is a

broad concave curve.

self assured nazi enthusiasts

who train daily to hone skills readily

or at painful trial aquired

are to be praised for their tenacity.

this said we must address motives:

the short game motive is obvious to the pecking order challenged,

more for me where there was none before.

burning the pecking order down from the bottom floor is at hand

the mere possession of a mega platform at the cost of mere money or effort

is the root of the problem.

bankers,Lawyers,used car dealers real estate brokers on a roll

are allowed a jump to status formerly unattainable.

bless their mortal souls may they find peace.

the Code of ethics unspoken aloud or written in this

sub culture we hold so dearly close to our hearts

is being challenged.

an OLD dicipline is being

morphed before our very eyes

sitting back to watch

is amusing and unsettling.

traditional spots are under seige

the morph of designs being specialized

to ride the Sophisticated waves marked and studied

the optimum boards well accepted

and applied are in heavy use.

any design morph will become

more simular to accepted forms than diffrent

I.E. rides like a short board long board

or rides like a long board shortboard

to introduce alternative specialized equiptment

is a slow and delicate process.

the introduction of the ''short board ",alaia

into the surfing culture of the late 1960s

was a momentus event of world shaking impact.

to those who clearly remember the clashes were notpleasant.

the return of a walking board ,over 8’

in contemporary popularity was also fraught with discontent

the return of the olo board though

phantasised by some

has not yet addressed the real olo parameters.

pharquing Wrong boarders!

was a battle cry not uncommon


is not exclusive to any one venue.

claims of "wrong board " indiscressions are

vollyied back and forth by the discontent


the Jury is out deciding the case


the humility and grace and magnanimity

of surfing will prevail.

the self serving greed

wether in the fortune or fame department

will ebb and flow with the tide of humanity.

surfers who endured wind surfers

until they found their niche

were of noble stock.

responsible opperating of alternative equiptment

is of primary concern.

opperating equipment in appropriate venues

is also of concern

sequestering enthusiasm

in these appropriate venues

is a learning experience

in it self.

rincon is ,

in super uncool placement

for the beach boy disipline

a short sprint up the coast

toward carpenteria

to coal oil point is a wise move

and more rewards than just waves.

social distance will breed a familiarity

and acceptance necessary to the

slow growth into this dicipline.

the wisdom of expressing this relocation

recomendation short of a brawling confrontation

or vandalous destruction of transportation

equiptment is immediately necessary

as the popularity of this recently

highly promoted specialized

venue grows …

as with wind surfing’spromotional hey day

this too shall pass.

the spiffy sponsored apparel manufacturers

and equiptment moguls will

eventually focus their attention elsewhere.

until then Patience and calm must prevail

leave the confrontation to the young bucks

the aging 40 year olds will accept their fate

as they slip from their bull status

they cherish it so dearly

they must have their day

though the sun is setting

quickly,their days of dominating the "hottie spots "

is approaching twilight

no matter what plastic junk

they support their egos on

body surfing will be the final venue.

unless the Corronary God

takes them in a massive tube ride at

backdoor on their 5’7’’

stand up paddle


if this guy can read hand him a copy of this post

I made my paddle long ago

and my first 12 'er turns 30 years old in january


the credible venues

will indeed be outside

offshore and

coastal cruising

from carp to C street wood be a stellar run.

if the guy was any good?

why is he sand boxing on his Harley

unless his fragile self esteem

needs to show off in front of the little kids

that burn him on his short board?