Front fin box close to rail. Opinions please. (Pics)

General Discussion
1

Hello - first off this is the 2nd board I’ve made… So I feel like i placed the front fins too close to the rail. First time using an FCS II jig with my router. Think I measured off the inner edge of fin box instead of outer. When i put the dummy fins in i felt like they were very close to the rail, the end of the fins sticks out further than the rail. Meant for them to be about 1 1/4 from rail but seems barely 1 inch. Both fins came out the same.

So I plan to keep the board regardless… worth knowing I’m making it for a friend of mine as a gift. He’s roughly an intermediate surfer (can pump and ride the line in good waves but can’t/doesn’t do turn moves like snaps or cutbacks…).

fins have 1/4" toe in. 

A few questions: 

  1. Has anyone had experience with this and if so will the board be fine for a beginner/intermediate (not squirrely)? 

  2. Planning to use 9 degree cant fcs II boxes, would 5 degrees be a better idea? maybe they will hang over rail less. 

Again, this board will be for someone who isn’t looking for an in-the-pocket maneuverable board… dims are roughly 6’2" x 20 x 2 1/2. 

Thanks!

red line is where hard edge will be

 

2

Those box placements are more than fine. You might want to foil the last 6" of that tail a bit more though

3

You should be fine.  Unless your friend is super picky.  But then your assessment of his surfing would probably be different.  You could always show your friend how the fins will look and get his feedback.  It looks like you did not set your fins into the blank yet so worst case scenario, you could always put foam back into the routed fin box spaces and reset your fin boxes into the desired spot.  

4

Thanks bruh. Foiled the tail more too, appreciate the guidance. 

5

Use the five degree.

6

Measure to the outline (rail apex) not the bottom rail edge.

Add at least 1/16 inch for two layers of glass on the rail.

Looks good

IMHO

https://www.instagram.com/p/BK6BwF4A0e8/?taken-by=pyzelsurfboards

7

Never heard that one before.  That would make rail fin markers useless.  The apex of the rail varies with every person that looks at it.  The sure fire method on a board that is symmetrical is still to measure from the center of the board to the INSIDE unfoiled edge of                    the fin front and back.  Toe in  the front to the desired distance whether it be 1/4" 1/8" whatevah.  Most shapers use a fin marker that squares to the rail.  The best one I’ve seen is the one Pete Casica manufactures.  The Terry Senate fin marker.  You can’t use a square if you’re trying to measure off an apex.  Never heard of anyone allowing for thickness of cloth.

8

Yeah this thing looks pretty handy. https://shapersupply.com/products/terry-senate-fin-marker 

Either way I’m going to leave it as is and just put in the 5 degree boxes. My buddy won’t know the difference…he goes straight.  

Good lessons learned for the next board. 

9

Yeah I think you’re fine.  Nothing wrong with it.  It is good though that your eye is critical enough to look at things like this.   Carpenters say " measure twice cut once".  In most cases though we want to confirm what we’ve  done with our hands by making sure it looks right to our eye…  Lowel

10

Apex is probably not the best term to use as it just refers to the highest point.

Shape3D uses it to define the plan shape outline rail control point, so it’s kind of used by computer nerds designing and cutting files;-)

Try measuring the distance of front fin boxes from the rail before and after glassing, especially with extra patches and aramid fibers, you might be suprised at the difference.