GO FOR IT!!!
Minimize spackle…use the “bones” or cut off waste foam to create filler plugs.
Do not freehand if you want it to look good…Template, template, template! Do not skimp on your template or the outline will come out lumpy and asymetrical.
Before you strip the glass, buy a 1/8 masonite sheet at the hardware/lumber yard. It comes in 4’x8’ sheets. Get them to cut you four 1’ wide strips 8’ long out of the original sheet. You need to have them cut the sheet to make sure the sides are straight. You can do this yourself if you have the tools. Now you have 4 template blanks!
Put your board deck down on your stands/sawhorses. Lay the template blank on the bottom. Line up one edge with the stinger. Trace the outline of the board onto the masonite blank. Use a Sharpie and try to keep it at the same angle against the surfboard rail. This will keep your transfered outline pretty much true. You can trace easier with the deck up but I find it takes a second person to keep the masonite tight on the board’s bottom while you trace.
Measure the traced outline in several locations to see that the outline is the same width as the board.
Now you are at a starting point to make your own new outline. Find a bendy piece of wood (dowel or strip) to use as a batten. This next process might take two people…
Put one end of the batten on your traced outline and start bending the other to create new curves. This is an infinite process so try a whole bunch of different curves until you think you’ve got it right (You can shorten the outline this way too). Then trace that curve with another Sharpie. I use different colors to help me compare curves. Make sure that your new curve blends into the old one smoothly.
Now stand the template blank up against the wall, step back and look at it. Does it look like 1/2 of a surfboard? Does everything blend smoothly? It it looks ok, on to the next step.
Now you have to cut the template out of the blank…I use a jigsaw. If you don’t have one, think about buying one as the alternative is a bitch. Saw outside the line you have chose for the outline. I stay about 1/8" away. When you are done sawing its time to sand.
Too many people skip the sanding but your template will end up with lumps and flats if you don’t. Use a surform or sanding block to smooth the outline curve to the inside of your Sharpie mark. Hold your new template up on edge on a flat surface. Roll it along the curve and you will find low spots, flat spots and lumps. Carefully sand these out so that the final outline curve flows. Don’t cheese out here. You’ll thank me later.
Take your final template and stand it up against the wall. Lookin good? If not, sand some more or…start over! You still have three more blank templates to use!
If you’re good to go…strip the glass on the surfboard, sand it smooth and lay the template ON THE BOTTOM of the board. Trace your outline on one side, flip the template over and trace the other side. Be sure you use a dark Sharpie. Stand the board up against the wall and check it out. Still lookin’ good?
Cut your outline out on the foam. Again, stay outside the line and hold your freaking saw straight up and down. Any variation from vertical will be a warble in the board’s final outline.
Now you can use those sanding skills and eye for smooth curves you learned making the template to smooth out the boards new outline. Use sanding blocks, surform or, if you’ve the guts, a power planer with 0 depth setting to smooth it out.
Whooohooo…you’re there and I’m tired of typing. I recommend doing a complete template even if you are just going to narrow up the nose. That way you have a smooth transition from your new curve to the old one. Plus you will learn a whole lot about what goes into outline design.
The next time, you will be able to create a whole new shape by using width measurements and your batten (or french curves).