Can anyone let me know the best way to cleanly rout future fin boxes without ripping the foam on the first rout?
From the Future instructions, it says to start with the shallower outer rout, then flip the template thing and rout out the inner/deeper area in the middle. My problem is that when i get ready to dip into the foam for the first rout, it grabs the foam and rips a chunk out of it. Once the bit is in the foam, it cuts cleanly, but it's just getting it down into the foam that first time that's the problem. Anyone have any advice?
Also, is it best to rout the fin boxes into the foam before glassing the board, or do some people do it afterwards?
future are designed to be routed and installed under the glass
or called glass over system
but they can be done after glassing with a patch added over them
Start with the router template sleeve on the jig, and with the router turned on, seat the router into the sleeve. Start with the sleeve positioned in the middle of your cut. When you flip the sleeve the second cut is deeper so any small ripping won’t matter. One pass in center line then follow the jig around the perimeter. Flip sleeve and be careful to lower router evenly for second depth cut. Be especially cautious on stringer because it will want to jump. Don’t forget spacer sleeve insert for center boxes, they are shallower Good luck.
Try using a speed controller for your router, you can pick up a cheapie at harbor freight. 20-20 K RPM is not necessary to get through glass and foam. Also practice the technique of holding the router base flat and slowly lowering the bit into the material. It’s not that difficult and will get a cleaner entry and finished product. Work safely, routers can be Rascally too.
The futures install kit I use only works with the ryobi router.
I only have experience with this kit, but i assumed this is what you are using also. The guy I apprentice under had a bit so old and dull it was like a campfire when we'd cut the stringer. Even with that old worn bit I haven't seen it grab a chunk of foam. Also the model I use only has one speed, on and it spins pretty damn fast. If you're using the same equipment as I, it has to be the technique.
Stand on the side of your board with very little of the tail hanging off rack, and a counter weight on board, (if needed!) over other side of shaping rack. Brick in a towel should work. I'm a rightie so, router in right hand, left hand holds sleeve in place. Drop that baby in gently and make sure it is all the way seated. When both sides are routed, take the corresponding box (rail has F, center has X) with fin inserted and make sure it fits. DO NOT MOVE THE JIG unless your totally happy with the depth. Then proceed. Remember to have fun.
P.S. you notice there is a flat spot in the sleeve and on router. I always begin with this parallel to rear of board.
if you don't have a plunge router, you can drill a "pilot hole" with a drill-driver. use a drill bit that is larger in diameter than the router bit. stick the router bit in the drill hole, without touching the foam, then start the router. good luck
A thought just occurred to me and after searching the swaylock’s archives, I came up with this thread. Although it doesn’t deal with my question directly, I thought it was relevant enough to revive it, as there might be others out there with a similar question.
I’m also using a Ryobi laminate trimmer like the one pictured previously (thanks Pico). I’m in Australia, but there can’t be that much difference between them. My question is, what’s the best bit to use when routing for a fin box or for plugs? The machine came with a standard, relatively narrow bit (sorry, don’t have a photo, can take one if required). Is this adequate for the job, or should I be looking for a more specialised product?
Incidentally, if you want a laugh, check out my old build thread for a lesson in how not to use said laminate trimmer…