When spraying blanks with Future acryllic, how long do you have to let it dry before you can put the lam on? I use the stuff to seal hot coats with and you have to wait 8 hours before you can recoat or the new coat will soften the first one. Is it OK to put the color on the foam after the clear has dried to the touch or is it best to wait until it cure dries. When using to seal hot coats, has anyone tried spraying it on as opposed to wiping on with a cloth? Simple questions I know but I would rather not mess up any projects after working on them that long. Herb? Anyone?? Thanks, Krokus
…After shaping is done ,I seal the blank,let it dry over night, unless it’s summer hot,then only a couple hours are needed,paint,let it dry(same curing proceedure for paint as Future),and re-seal paint and blank.Wait at least a day before glassing after all is done.Herb
I read on here a while back - someone said that the Future sprayed well, but then it turned brown quickly on top of the hot coat. I used it to mix with paint and it worked quite well. I also tried wiping it on for sealing the hot coat, and it was less than desirable for me for that purpose. I like the ‘speed spray’ from Fiberglas Floida much better; I think it is some sort of urethane sealer by the smell. http://groups.msn.com/thegrasshoppersurfboard/shoebox.msnw
Thanks Herb…Perfect. That was exactly what I wanted to know. Richard, Does the speed spray hide light weave marks from sanding? I occasionally have some weave show after sanding and I hate the thought of another coat of resin just to have to sand everything again. Is that the same or similar stuff as “Dolphin Skin”? Thanks again guys for the speedy replies! Krokus
speed spray hides all the weave marks. if you hit the weave really bad, just wipe a little on in that area before you spray and you wont see it. you can even buff it out nicely. but i have heard you can use the future for the same thing. its just that speed spray is easier to work with (dries quick) and is made specificly for surfboards (very good UV protection keeping boards clear), but it is more expensive and not as environmentally/human friendly (you need to wear a mask when spraying). http://groups.msn.com/thegrasshoppersurfboard/shoebox.msnw
Do you have a link for fiberglass Florida? I saw an ad for Speed Spray somewhere but I don’t remember where. I order a lot of stuff from Surfsource, don’t know if they carry it or not. I know they have dolphin skin. Krokus
Don’t use the stuff from surf source it’s clled wipeout it’s way to thin.Resin Research makes a water based speed spray also.look in the archives for the number.
For the record Future does a good job at hiding small weave marks too… never tried the speed spray, so I’m not saying Future is better, just that it works. I’m not sure about brown, but Future certainly will turn white if you put it on too thick, though I haven’t had any problems since I started spraying it. And… if it’s a sunny day, I’ll only wait 15 minutes in between coats, you can watch the sun dry it up, it scotch-brites just fine, so I’d assume that’s long enough…
Hey Rook, Thanks for the response! I was going to try spraying it also this time around. Do you thin it with a little water or just use as is? When the Aussies talk about using automotive acryllic are they talking about acryllic laquer or acryllic enamel? Man you could get some fine metallics in the auto paints. I think for a longboard clearcoat you could use the clearcoat urethane for autos and it would work great. How many spraycoats of Future do you usually put?? Krokus
Straight outta the bottle. I’m sure plenty of other products will work fine… I use Future because I can pick it up at any of the 1 zillion Targets located nationwide, it costs like 5 bucks for a bottle that’ll last you forever if your the occasional builder, and… don’t forget the lemony fresh scent. Not to mention it does what I’m looking for, seals the blank and provides a nice finish, I’m not looking for any strength out of it. I do 2 to 3 coats, depending on how well I sanded my hotcoat (I’ll put more if I hit the weave)… also depending on how warm a day it is. On warm sunny days the stuff pretty much dries on contact if you spray light, so I do several light ones…
Dolphin skin works pretty good (wiped on and buffed out) but i dont know if spraying it produces good results. i have heard good and bad about that wipeout stuff. It looks kind of crappy. speed spray is the best i think. $30 for a gallon. like $10 for a quart, which would do a few boards. greg loehrs speed spray i have heard is very good also. Future acrylic is good to have around but other surfboard specific sealers work better. resin research - 321-779-2369. fiberglass florida - 800-699-4527 or 321-639-3046 http://groups.msn.com/thegrasshoppersurfboard/shoebox.msnw
Howzit Rook, The acrylic thinner I use is pretty close to Future. After appling 3 coats you can still see the weave but after I knock it down with a rice pot scrubber on my grinder the weave is gone. What’s a little strange is if I apply another coat after the knock down the weave reappears. Aloha, Kokua
After you apply the future do you buff it out? http://swansea.kalinin1.biz/
Im experimenting with Automotive 2component clear for finnishing bottoms and rails, with this medium I can use additives like pearl or metalic or harliquin effects, Im am still in the first stages of durability testing. Athough the paint is very good(8-10yrs for cars) Im not convinced it will last with the sea exposure and the substrate compatibily is also suspect. But you should have seen the first board it was a plain board with a family crest in red with my pearl red clear finnish, in the sun it flashes light green to light pink and straight on its just a beutiful glossy finnish like that you see on custom cars. This is very good for effect and overall finnish but its expensive. The cost for the above job if I had charged would have been AUD$300. The Paint system was PPG global. http://www.geocities.com/wunderboyi/newsequence.html
a good dust coat can cover weave and even eighty grit scatches …speed finsh ,automotive acrylic, enamel,enamel with hardener.2 pak polyurethane .2 pak acrylic ,2 part epoxy ,and plain old polyester gloss resin all work well to some degree just depends on what quality you want and how much work you want to do …the quickest finish you could possibly do is automotive acrylic single part, multi purpose thinners 60% clear 40% thinners with no flatening base …one good wet looking coat allow to dry then 2 to 3 dusties with the volume of liquid turned down on the gun for the dusties so they go on dry the board gets a dusty over spray feel you just knock it off with 600 wet and wipe with a rag and get get a satin looking finish…if you cant finish at least 4 boards an hour this way ,your out surfing … regards BERT