I did multiple box installs on a sailboard and without enough of the little orange spacers to put inside to prevent the epoxy from expanding and squeezing the box sides inwards, I have a problem. I tried sanding but its going to take a long while. I looked for a 1/4 inch shank 1/3 inch router bit, but I’ve not found one yet. Still looking.
In the meantime, does anyone have a good remedy for this?
all the best, Greg
First off, I will take your cautionary tale to heart and make sure I keep spacers in the slot when I install, so thanks for that heads up.
Secondly, the easiest remedy isn’t a remedy at all, but a hack - you could dedicate a fin and fin position to this board.
Careful interior work, with a sharp vixen file. I’ve done it before, on the large FU box. Frequent test fittings, will help you dial it in.
Use a 1/8 bit - tape a straight guide to run your router up against.
Cut even amounts off each side.
Data point: the vixen file is quick and easy.
I won’t make this mistake again.
all the best
Hi greg, I didn’t realize epoxy expands. Mixing milled fibers to your epoxy and making a tooth paste consistancy slurry, you will not have the exo themermic situation like straight up resin. You will use 1/3 or less of the resin when using milled fibers. Makes it WAY stonger, less heat, virtually no mess and easy to clean up. Can use fast hardener to go to next step of fiberglass patch quicker. Also a deburring tool might be all you need to fix. The top part of fin box opening needs a quick clean up and cut back in order for fin to fit. Have installed over 100 Futures center boxes and at least a thousand of regular boxes and have never had a problem. Have placed a few with center support pieces missing also with out problems. Super light weight 1 lb and less density EPS I cut deep and put a balsa bottom in the box hole also.
aloha,
Charlie
Thank you Charlie
all the best
Nice work Charlie (as always). I hadn’t thought about Balsa in the bottom of the routed hole. Good idea. On the small boxes, I have been using Cabosil to thicken up my resin. I pour off a small amount in a Dixie cup and brush into the hole. I use an “acid/glue” brush to brush the thickened resin around the hole and the flange cut. I sink the boxes and make sure the resin comes up thru the slots and plastic squeege off the excess. Roll my cloth back over and laminate.
Great tip Lowell. I have never used cabosil but recently was given some, like a gallon FGH bucket size. I will have to experiment with it. My 50 pound bag of milled fiber last 3-4 years instead of the expensive way by buying it by the 1 lb small tub.
i use cotton floc, ie microfibers 403 from west system, as gluing filler. had volume strengh and thixotropie for cheap, less strength than glass powder but easier to sand.
Lol! “50 lb bag”. I did the same thing. When I die, they’ll give it away to some guy who’ll use it in drywall mud I suppose.
I do use 1/32” milled fiber on Bahne boxes. I like to keep a little white Gelcoat around for that. But if I don’t have it I use white pigment. For the Futures Strong box I use The Cabosil method. Not an original trick. Picked it up from watching Loehr’s film “Epoxy 101”. Because it’s clear it disappears into the lamination when squeeged. Nice to use the excess in the “Butt crack” on a Fish too. Helps the cloth lay down.
