Just doing final sanding on my board, and the blank has two basswood stringers, 1 1/8" apart. I have a brand new finger plane with a sharp blade, and no matter what I do, the stringers still stick up a tad, and the foam in between the stringers seems to dip. Any advice? If it’s not perfectly flush, would the lam, and then the hotcoat be enough to bring it up to “flushness”???
Seems the little tiny hand plane should cut one at a time down to the foam, then light finish with 120.
That’s how we dealt with those windsurfer blanks with double 1/8th redwood stringers.
You gotta skim some foam, of course, that’s why you clean up afterwards with 120. NOBODY can do a perfect job, but make it flush to feel.
It needs to perfect dammit! 
all I think about when I’m doing it, is how every little scratch and ding will be darker than the surrounding foam when it’s resin tinted…
Take your little block plane and adjust the blade so that it only cuts on one side. (slightly angled) That way your cutting area is reduced and you can just cut the stringer. Also angle the mini block as you would use your power planer, so that the back of the plane sits on the foam, that will help you control the tool, and also allow you to monitor the depth that you are cutting better. Keep the plane sharp, and go slow, being mindful of the grain direction of the stringer, if you are cutting against the grain of the wood, it will cause the plane to dig in to deep and tear the foam. Like you said, every rip, tear, and scratch will show up with a resin tint. They are a pain in the ass, the best advice I can give you is to go really slow, keeping in mind that you are only trying to make it clean, the shaping is done at that point… not worried about creating highs and lows anymore… if you start to gouge the foam, stop. then restart after you reset the tool depth, I see to many guys that start gouging- then keep going until they finish the cut. You can do it perfect, but it takes alot of patience and practice! -Carl
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If it’s not perfectly flush, would the lam, and then the hotcoat be enough to bring it up to “flushness”???
Most everybody tried this at one point in their early shaping days. I just don’t work. Rule - resin/lam is never an alternative to correct shape. Stringers must be perfect and at or below surface of foam. Use a straight edge. Don’t move to glassing until shape is 100% right. Shine!
Nothing is perfect!
Look at 1,000 tinted boards, and you’ll see the mini plane marks on all of them!
Check top of nose mainly, and with multiple stringers, the rails everywhere…
I read a trick somewhere to put tape over the foam next to the stringers, then plane them down without taking off much wood, maybe you could try that?
use a very light touch, and pull the plane toward you instead of pushing it.
PS welcome back Shine!