I just finished a board and found a few spots where the glass didn’t wet out all the way. (See pictures). I am thinking about fixing the spots. Any ideas here, all i can think of is sanding it, or possibly some posca work.
That my friend is air.
See in the reflection of the hot Coat all those holes filled up?
Lam job either was pulled too dry, or it kicked slow and drained into foam.
I doubt it was pulled too dry, more like not squeegeed nearly hard enough, I call that sheet air, I pull my lams that I do hard enough to air out the first pull, air from the surface you can back fill, air under all the layers, it is there for the world to marvel over for eternity
Maybe try sanding the area down to the point of being able to see the weave of the cloth (but don’t get it too hot or it will de-lam). The try applying a small amount of surfacing agent (resin thinner) with a brush to see if it will soak into and fill those little air pockets. The apply some sanding resin on top and sand flat.
That sounds about right. Especially the surfacing agent bit! Thanks much!
Thanks for the insight! Not good news though.
Sickfish, I’ve done this with old delams but the concept is the same.
You’ve got dry glass that shows up but it’s absorbent. I’ve used a very fine drill bit and Im talking “dental” fine and drilled one or two or three holes just thru the glass. Drill in the middle of the dry area and go perpendicular. Then apply mixed resin and massage it into and along the area, the dry glass is quite flexible. Even broken glass responds to this technique and it absorbs the resin and sets clear, the fine holes disappear too. But it’s a One Shot technique.
unless you plan on selling this board just ride it. This is a pain to fix (hours of prep work to do right as SRDCO said you have one shot) and likely wont affect durability or performance… if you have to repair one of those spots down the road that’s not a huge deal but nothing is worse than cutting up a board you just finished
You rock! I’m gonna give it a shot. This is for a buddy who wants to hang it up in his shop, so I’d prefer it be perfect! Or, mostly perfect!
Yeah, believe me. If it were just for me I wouldnt bother, but its for a friend who wants to hang it up on a wall.
if you have one, use a Dremel and just ease the drill bit thru the centre of the dry area. Once you work some resin in you can see that each hole only allows for a circle of resin to soak in but it’s easier than sanding patches out and looks 99/100. Thankfully you’re using clear resin and not matching colours.
I’ve used the same technique on water stained restoration jobs but with bleach that completely removed the brown water stain and I then filled in the hole with resin.
I do have one and will definitely go that route. Thats great info on the brown spots too. How long do you usually give it to dry out before you close the hole? Thanks so much for your help!!!
These were old boards that were bought for pennies because they were damaged. The bleach only works on the organic stain and didn’t damage the foam.
Drill the hole/s, apply the bleach with a q-tip to the hole and the dry foam will draw the bleach in, so a dry board is better. And the stain vanishes in minutes.
As for drying a board, there’s different theories about putting it in the sun, or hanging it in a drafty area, or drilling a hole at the other end to where the water is, but sometimes the cure is just time.