Glass Schedule for HP longboard

I am planning a high performace quad longboard for New England. not looking for glide on this one; I want to keep it light and lively, but dont want it to snap.  I am considering a 4 oz s-glass bottom and 2 4oz s-glass deck over a heavier density, blue, arctic blank with polyester resin. I have had good results with this combo on some sub-6 foot stubby and fish boards, but they are not subject to the same force as a longboard. thoughts?

strong enough? maybe some vector net on the bottom, which I have never used?

Why not a egg? you will be far less likely to snap it and you wont be in the HP longboard catagory :slight_smile: Win Win!

Most of those that I have glassed had been 4x4 deck 4 bottom with some patches but those where sponsered guys that snapeed them all the time.

I think the term “HP longboard” should be revised. Just call it what it really is. An oxymoron.

 

True.

I do a lot of performance (notice I didn’t say HPLB…) longboards with 4 x 4 decks & 4 oz bottoms.  If you are glassing it yourself make sure you are using the correct width glass for the deck.  Don’t cheat and use narrower glass (shortboard stuff) as you will get nasty seams that won’t hold up.  You want a full double wrap on the deck.  I use glass that will give at least a 1" wrap on the bottom.  Offcuts go to making patches & fins.  Every test I have ever seen done shows that 4 x 4 is stronger than 6 x 4 and my production and personal boards have always proved that to me.  Go with a light sanding coat and no gloss and if you cure it before surfing, you will build a board that will last.  The trio of boards are still being surfed with the newest glassed 3 or so years ago.  The blue & blue/yellow are two of my new personal boards that were glassed last month.  All are 4 x 4 decks.  Just my 2c… 



Eye candy! 

nice looking boards, teach. thank you for your advice.  

performance longboards, whatever you want to call it, might not be cool, and it isnt necessarily my first choice of what to ride. That said, in our inconsistent conditions, weak waves, and crowded lineups, it is a very functional shape. 

Wider laps are key.

Alot of glassers tend to do short laps. It really does make a huge difference.

If using 4oz. use “S” glass.

I built a board for a guy who surfs it daily.

One layer 4oz. “S” bottom

Two layers deck with 3/4 patch. All “S”.

Light and strong.

He let it cure for a month after completeing it.

Surfteach, Barry, Which resins are you using with the 4 oz. success stories?  Surfteach boards look about 3" thick?  and the stringers are 1/4 or 3/8"?  Thanks

The trio of boards are all 3" thick, 4oz. S cloth & Silmar resin.  The yellow is pigment and the “parent” of the other two.  My customer liked it so much he wanted the same in 9’8" & 10’ so that’s the other two.  1/4" stringer and Just Foam (RIP).  The blue one is 2 7/8", S cloth, Silmar 1/4" stringer, Millenium Foam Black.  The yellow nose one is my “Thinline” series and is surfed 2 - 4" longer than your normal board.  It’s 2 1/2", glassed the same with a bit wider rail lap on the deck in both layers.  That one is Artic Foam yellow.  Shortboards will benifit from one layer on the bias.  Barry’s advise is always golden as he is pushing planers & squeeges daily.  Just my 2c…

Pretty standard as surfteach said above.

Silmar and “S” or "D"size cloth.

4oz. and 6oz.

Usually US Blanks red or orange.

Been doing some Epoxy on PU foam lately.

Pretty tough glass-jobs.

I’m not a lazy laminator.

Always do wider than average laps.

Especially when I lam the decks.

Some of the lap is removed during the sanding in an effort to feather the lap and make flat.

I try to make my Hot-coats look like glosses.