Hi folks. Depressingly, this is now the fourth glassing f**k up. I think the foam gods are trying to tell me something.
Issue no.1, not so serious: bottom of the board, sanded off the imperfections from the freelap, used grit 320 - question: do the white marks need to be sanded down to say grit 1000? If not sanded off will they show through the hotcoat? I assume they will. Short clip of the finish: https://youtu.be/NZ0h7oANJKY
Issue no.2 - The Deck Disaster. I used a 4oz cloth on the bottom which covered just the deck, 6oz top layer also wrapped around the rails. When it dried, deck was really lumpy near the rails, I assumed that this was due to the resin collecting around where the bottom layer of the cloth met the top layer. Sanded it down, transpired these were actually air pockets and now the foam is exposed. Short clip of the deck glassing error: https://youtu.be/ghH76Bec78E
I can shape a perfectly symmetrical board from scratch but glassing gets me every time ffs. I’m not entirely sure what to do about the deck, my instinct is to attempt to reglass the holes and resand, or just fill the holes where the foam is exposed with resin. Core is EPS, glassed with epoxy.
Can’t see much on your first vid. Just looks like dust. Should go away. Test a little spot.
The main damage -pick out all the white glass - fill with qcill/cabo and resin mix (you can try to match the color if you want). If it goes the whole length of the rail, I’d wrap the entire rails again 3” onto the deck and 2” under.
If it’s mainly in a few places, I’d just wrap those spots.
I’ve had boards like yours in the first vid and went ahead and glassed over the light dust. I seem to find white specks in the hot/gloss coat when I did that but it could’ve been caused by other factors (dust). In your 2nd vid, you need to sand away all of that loose glass. Also, on the rail, I would either sand it down more (risking sandthroughs) or throw a light coat over them and then sand it down smooth (weight gain). Take what I say with a grain of salt, I’m a backyarder and have made many screw ups like yours.
Use a good quality tape that will actually stick to the blank and go over it a couple times a spreader or the back of a single edged razor to get full contact between the tape and foam - you don’t want any resin seeping underneath
when you wet the laps out make sure they’re sufficiently saturated, squeegee the excess resin off the flats and onto the rail, leaving only the cloth that covers the apex and underside of the rail hanging free, then let that drain a little.
cut off any hanging chads before you squeegee the laps flat
let the resin cure to hard-but-not dry before you cut the lap. better to cut a little outside the tape line than inside the tape line where you will be trapping some tape under your edges.
press the exposed lap line flat and even a little into the foam so that you won’t have to sand much off the edge itself to get it even with the flats on the dry side
It’s easier to get a flat bottom result if you glass the deck first, get the bottom flat and then glass the bottom lapping onto the deck. It’s a bit easier to freelap that 2nd lam onto a double layered deck smoothly without threatening the integrity of the underlying lamination.
white spots look like burn throughs
good sanding does,'nt sand
into the glass because there is enough resin
in the hot coat.anal approaches to the
sacred hot coat are in religous history
of surfboard building sometimes
refered to as double hotcoats
when actually an extra coat
called cheater coats.
best lams are so controlled
th resin under and over glass leave no
NO irregularities.(period)
the laminators that do this
are high priests of the glassing temples.
We mere mortals who aspire to a credible
laminating effort end up with lumps
that when we try to reshape in to a continuous
contour end up with sand throughs exposing glass
aka white spots,these are sometimes dry enough
to resist a gloss application as you have questioned and
the answer is indeed squeegee another coat of resin
( even lam resin then hot coat sanding resin
{surf agent+ lam resin cocktail})
then sand with sand paper not too fine as to
promote mechanical bond [I use 60 grit with res research]
and with poly I use 80grit
without hitting glass weave.
too fine is overkill in my exposure
so what if you can see a scratch
on your board in the right light
under the gloss…
when it’s going
into a cliff ,or cobblestones
on the beach
covered with barnacles.
so many self criticisms
can block the original motive:
catching a wave
and becoming weightless.
…ambrose…
the burden of gravity
was never more apparent
before you caught your first wave.
