Glassing job gone wrong with air bubbles

Hi professionals,

Could I please ask for some assistance? I have been shaping my brothers board from an epoxy blank. The shaping went well then came the dreaded glassing. Unfortunately the resin gelled quicker that what I wanted and the job turned nasty with big obvious air bubbles on the topside in a few spots. I got quoted a large amount of cash to have the glass removed then re-glassed, but thought I’d rather try and do something “easier” myself. I still have the hot coat to go, fin box etc. 

 

Any advise would be much appreciated,

Cheers,

MatBlack

 

PS, The flash really makes it look bad, haha.


hey bro the art work looks real good. Are in NZ If so there are a few of us here on sways maybe you could meet up with someone local to you and get some tips and help to try fix but i have to say that those bubbles look bad bro

cheers antony

Ouch,  I suspect anyone who has glassed has had the same issue at least once.  The good news as I see it is you glassed with epoxy, so sanding it is going to be easier.  I would start by razorblading each bubble, and unwetted piece of cloth out from it’s base, cutting as close to the blank as possible.  Then sand back the ridges that are left with a block.  Get them as flush and smooth as possible.  After that, depending on how much work you want to do…  Either patch each hole like you would a ding,  which sounds like a hell of a lot of work.  Or, just lay some resin down in those holes to get it somewhat flush with the glassed areas, then sand and hotcoat.  Or, fill the holes with resin, and put an extra layer of cloth on top of the flawed one.  If it were me, I would just fill those holes with resin, sand em down, glass the deck and extend the cloth as far around to the bottom as possible, hotcoat and ride it.  If the lam ends up weak, oh well.  At least you learned something from it.  In any case, it’s going to be a pain in the ass.  But an educational pain at least.  And your arms are going to be seriously buff afterwards ; ) 

Thanks heaps mate,

 

Think i’m gonna get in to some razor blading with the craft knife and scalpel. Then work on my buffness!!! I definitely need some. Then fill with resin and sand away or lightly plane?.. I’ll get in to it. Thank again!

 

Mat

Bummer.

By the term “epoxy blank” I presume you mena EPS (expandalble polystyrene aka styrofoam (Dow trade name))?  

Blanks are either EPS or Polyurethane “PU” for short.

Yes the bubbles are nasty, but because you used epoxy the cured glass will be easier to sand as Huskell mentioned. However, I would not just fill the area with resin in either way that Huskell suggests.

Don’t give up that easy.

Go ahead and use an exacto knife or similar to cut as much of the bubble and lifted area as possible You can use a razor, or Dremel type tool, or even just sand off the bubble with a coarse sandpaper block or grinder.

Fair in the edges as best you can next to the foam. No doubt the rest of the epoxied glass job is well cured now and you are going to have to scuff sand it before applying any mre epoxy or it will not stick properly. Depending upon the epoxy type your are using, read the label and see what it says about 2nd coats. If it says that you can add additional coats with 24 or 48 hours without sanding,and, you are in tht time frame, then consider yourself very fortunate. Or it may suggest that you do a wash over using denatured alcohol to acquire a new tackiness without requiring sanding. Again, if this is possible,count your lucky starts.

Chances are you will not be that lucky and you will need to put on some rubber gloves, grab a longsleeved shirt and tough it out scuff sanding the entire cloth layer. Might I suggest before you do that, buy some baby powder (talcum) and generously put it all over your forearms up to your elbows. Then don the longsleeve shirt and tape around the wrists if the shirt is loose fitting. What the baby powder does is temporarily fill your pores so the sande glass doesn’t.

Skuff sanding is NOT thorough sanding. You can use a block and some coarse sanding paper just to get some random scratches along the glass so the next coat has something to grab onto. Remove the bubbles best you can, fair in the edges some, then apply additional glass patches an inch or two past the cut out areas. You may want to baste the open bubble areas first than lay the cloth on top and squeegee down the repair area.

It sounds as though you have not done the other side of the board, so you may hae to scuff the repaired areas once they cure, or you may be able to flip the board and glass the other side then hotcoat it with still enough time to flip that over and hotcoat the repaired side. If too much  time has gone by since repairing it, then scuff sand the glass patches so you can hotcoat allof that side at once.

Do not just put resin on the open bubble areas without glass.

Make sure your epoxy is very carefully measured per their ratios, and mix it very thoroughly.

To give your self more time, once mixed, pour it onto the entire surface of the side with a squeegee, plastic spreader quickly so it can soak into the cloth. If you leave the epoxy in the pot instead, it will heat up very quickly and you will have no work time. The idea is to get it distributed all over the surface in the least amount of time possible. Then start working your squeegee at a35 to 45 degree angle to the cloth starting from the center out. I use a pattern of center toward nose, center toward tail then so on so the cloth doesn’t shift all over the place. To quickly distribute the epoxy resin all over the cloth, I pour libera amounts of epoxy onto the board and  bull doze it all over the surface without actual grabbing the glass. Then I go back and start doing the harder pressure from center out.

Long or wide overlaps are much more difficult for beginners to lap over. Pick what length seems comfortable to you and cut notches at nose and tail so you do not get wrinkles at those junctures. Try lapping them dry to see where they end up before ever getting the resin out.

Some people use the squeegee where others are more comfortable with a 2" or 3" chip brush. If your brush doesn’t seem stiff enough for the task, cut the bristles shorter until they feel firm. a 3" chip brush is cheap and the unfinished handles are just wood so you don’t have any color running off into your job.

Hope this gets you back on track.

Hotcoat the board and then sand. Sanding at this stage should take out the bubbles in your glass. Then glass the deck again with a layer of four ounce, hotcoat the deck and then sand again.

Hi MatBlack -

It's hard to tell from pics.  I'd give it a good close look to see if you have pin air under the glass where it appears to be stuck to the glass.  If you are dealing with loads of pin air AND the big bubbles of wrinkles cloth I'd say just peel it all off, power sand the blank and reglass from scratch. 

It looks as if the blank was intentionally left thick and wide?  That's good.  If you decide to follow my recommendation, that will allow a little bit of wiggle room as the blank is slightly reshaped.

If the attached glass is free of pin air, go ahead and try to cut and feather the bubbles and reglass each as if they were ding repairs.

Take heart.  Worse things have happened - including botch jobs so bad the entire project was scrapped and thrown out.

Yeah, I should have stated clearly in my first post that I am a novice.  Deadshaper is right on the money I am sure.  On the first PE/PU longboard board I made,  I had a similar issue when I glassed the bottom, though not to the same degree.  I exacto’d out the bubbles and sanded em down.  I had planned to feather and patch each of the holes I had made but there were a dozen or so fairly large mishaps, and a similar number of small ones.  So, instead I just filled with resin and extended the deck layer around and over those mistakes.  By the time I hotcoated they had disappeared cosmetically.  

I figured it would be ok and so far so good, but now you have me wondering…  Are those spots going to cause me cracks and delams down the road since the flex properties will be different?  Thanks in advance.

 

 

MatBlack, To become a master craftsman at anything you have to start with the first step. You have taken that first step. Some times one must take 2 steps forward and one step back. Yes you really screwed the  glass job  but you learned how not to do it. You need to read more how too. You need to watch some U tubes. You need to look over some ones shoulder. Yes you can fix what you have there and maybe learn some about repair work. I wouldn't, I'd start over. The board looks kind of chunky so I would say there is enough meat there to strip the glass off and re-shape. When you shape don't except ,I think it's good enough !! Shape it ,put it on your bench and look at it. If it doesn't look right then it isn't. Look at it a lot untill it becomes clear in your mind how it should be. Take your time , look at it a week, a month what ever it takes to get it right in your mind. When it is clear in your mind let your hands fallow your mental image (They will !) If you can visualize it you can make it. when you have it right you will know. When It comes time to glass your board , glass it in your mind before you even mix any resin, go through each step in your mind untill you have every step down ,A good time to solve your problems is to think about it before you go to bed. Then when you sleep your mind will work on it. Set all your stuff out before you start and dry run every step . Do it several times before you start .untill it is clear what you are going to do. With a clear idea in your mind let your hands fallow . If you cant see a clear picture in your mind you cant do a good job in what you make !! Now get out in the shop and get to work. You can do it !!!

This is really good advice. I agree, strip off all the glass and reshape the blank. Then glass it again taking into account what you’ve learned. I had some major stuff-ups while I was figuring out how to shape and glass. I’m glad I made those mistakes since they have made me a better shaper. 

Thanks heaps man for your valid input! I have taken it all in to consideration! Some seriously valid helpful tips! 

 

Much appreciated!

Thanks heaps man for your valid input! I have taken it all in to consideration! Some seriously valid helpful tips! 

 

Much appreciated!