So as I’m reading about laminating and laps there are terms and processes being thrown out that I’m completely clueless on. I was curious if you all can help me out. When people are talking about laps they talk about “Pinlines”. What are these? What do they do? Taping - When people are talking about doing lams, they say that they tape down and then “Slice” the tape to cut the laps. What exactly is meant by this? Does anyone have an article orl ink to an article on how exactly to do this. Lapping methods - Is there more then one? What are they? Which are best? Where can I go to learn. Laminating - when doing the lam coat and you don’t use wax, what happens if you are less than perfect and need to sand? Is there a chance to do so and if so, how? What problems occur. Double Glassing - When doing double glass for the deck, do you do it all at once (i.e. Run both layers of glass then pour your lam resin) or do you lam one layer then lay the second glass and lay that layer? Squeege - How hard should the pressure be? What are the signs of too hard and/or too soft? Forgive my ignorance guys and girls, I’m trying to grasp all this knowledge.
Christian,Good questions. Here’s what I know: PINLINES: A colored line, usually around 1/8" wide used for either pure decoration, or to cover where the lap was cut. Can be painted on the foam, hotcoat, or glosscoat. Can also be done with colored resin instead of paint or a paint pen. TAPING: An example would be that you use 2" wide tape approx. 1-1/2" in from the rail edge on the deck of the board. The tape creates a clean edge. Then when you laminate the bottom, the cloth laps over that tape edge. After the resin gels, you cut the cloth carefully at the tape edge at the same time as you pull the tape: pulling as you go. LAP METHODS: Lap refers to the edge of the fiberglass cloth. The cloth laps around the rail. Sometimes it stops halfway around. SAND THE LAM COAT: Take it from one who has tried it: don’t do it if you can help it. Lam resin is always a little sticky, and it will hold dirt and dark sandpaper granules. If you have to, use white painter’s open-coat sandpaper. DOUBLE LAMINATIONS: Rule of thumb is to do them all at the same time. There are exceptions, but not many. Also the more you do at the same time, the more resin you’ll need. Cloth traps and holds resin.SQUEEGEE PRESSURE: Too much and the cloth will move around. Too little and you’ll leave too much resin. But remember that the resin needs a little time to soak in, so don’t go too thin at the beginning of the process, or as it soaks down into the foam, the cloth may become too dry. I would highly recommend you buy the video Glassing 101 by John Carper, and the book Essential Surfing by George Orbelian. They are great references. Good Luck and have fun. Doug
Christian,Good questions. Here’s what I know: PINLINES: A colored line, usually around 1/8" wide used for either pure decoration, or to cover where the lap was cut. Can be painted on the foam, hotcoat, or glosscoat. Can also be done with colored resin instead of paint or a paint pen. TAPING: An example would be that you use 2" wide tape approx. 1-1/2" in from the rail edge on the deck of the board. The tape creates a clean edge. Then when you laminate the bottom, the cloth laps over that tape edge. After the resin gels, you cut the cloth carefully at the tape edge at the same time as you pull the tape: pulling as you go. LAP METHODS: Lap refers to the edge of the fiberglass cloth. The cloth laps around the rail. Sometimes it stops halfway around. SAND THE LAM COAT: Take it from one who has tried it: don’t do it if you can help it. Lam resin is always a little sticky, and it will hold dirt and dark sandpaper granules. If you have to, use white painter’s open-coat sandpaper. DOUBLE LAMINATIONS: Rule of thumb is to do them all at the same time. There are exceptions, but not many. Also the more you do at the same time, the more resin you’ll need. Cloth traps and holds resin.SQUEEGEE PRESSURE: Too much and the cloth will move around. Too little and you’ll leave too much resin. But remember that the resin needs a little time to soak in, so don’t go too thin at the beginning of the process, or as it soaks down into the foam, the cloth may become too dry. I would highly recommend you buy the video Glassing 101 by John Carper, and the book Essential Surfing by George Orbelian. They are great references. Good Luck and have fun. Doug
Thanks for the great answers… I actually have the glassing 101 video but he kind of glosses over, no pun intended, the finer details of glassing. I.E. Explaining that a hot coat is actually resing with more catalyst to heat it up. I at first thought it was a hotter coat of resin that was heated. I’ve got the the Master Shaper Series by Jim Phillips on my wish list over here and just put the essential surfing on my Amazon wish list. I can’t wait till the master glasser series comes out. So as fro the sanding of the Lam coat, or lack there of. Is the idea that you smootho ut the imperpections when doing your hotcoat(s)? It seems that would make sense, and the taping ahh thank god I understand now. I was trying to put the words into a picture in my head and, jesus, I had all types of scenes going on, but not that. Thanks for all the help. I’ve actually been looking to find a mentor/teacher out here on the East Coast (NY/NJ/PA) but haven’t had much luck. Hell I’ve even offered my time, skills(graphic design, photography) for free but no luck. Thanks for the help. With all the flat surf I’ve had many a nights to browse the board finally and get some solid info.
Thanks for the great answers… I actually have the glassing 101 video but he kind of glosses over, no pun intended, the finer details of glassing. I.E. Explaining that a hot coat is actually resing with more catalyst to heat it up. I at first thought it was a hotter coat of resin that was heated. I’ve got the the Master Shaper Series by Jim Phillips on my wish list over here and just put the essential surfing on my Amazon wish list. I can’t wait till the master glasser series comes out. So as fro the sanding of the Lam coat, or lack there of. Is the idea that you smootho ut the imperpections when doing your hotcoat(s)? It seems that would make sense, and the taping ahh thank god I understand now. I was trying to put the words into a picture in my head and, jesus, I had all types of scenes going on, but not that. Thanks for all the help. I’ve actually been looking to find a mentor/teacher out here on the East Coast (NY/NJ/PA) but haven’t had much luck. Hell I’ve even offered my time, skills(graphic design, photography) for free but no luck. Thanks for the help. With all the flat surf I’ve had many a nights to browse the board finally and get some solid info.
Christian, I’m glad the info was some help. One more thing about sanding the lam coat: You can actually sand high spots and “frozen” fibers using a 4" electric grinder with a sanding disk. 60 or 80 grit works well. I’ve also seen guys use a dremel type electric motor with a small (2" I think) sanding disk attachment. Somehow the speed of the disk seems to prevent the resin from getting dirty. Just be careful not to gouge the exposed foam with the disk. Doug
Christian, Where are you located. I am in Monmouth county NJ, Manasquan/Balmar. i have been shaping for about 5 years now and would definitley be interested in helpig you out, if not in person then at least via e-mial. I am no master, far from it, but I can help you get going and more importantly avoid a lot of stupid mistakes that I have had the “pleasure” of experiencing on my own. Love to hear from you
Hey Drew, I shot you an email this morning. I am in Hamilton but obviously am down in that area a few times a week surfing, though not lately as I’m sure you know. Christian My email is: Thanks again, look forward to talking with you.
Christian, another option for cleaning up the lam coat is to use a surform tool to take down the bigger bumps. I trim any strings with a scissor or razor blade, then attack any drips or bumps with the surform. It can gum up a bit, and you do need to be careful, but it’s a quick way to whack down any of the bigger problems (nose, tail, rail-drips, etc.). Leave the rest for the sanding after the hot-coat. or… if you use epoxy to laminate, you can sand the lam coat right down to the foam if you’d like to. Go… make drips! Eric J
I was wondering where I can order the Master Shaper Series by Jim Phillip? I would love to get my hands on it and do not know why I have not heard it mentioned before. I have recently moved and just got my computer back on-line, so perhaps that may be why. I checked the archives but to no avail. Thanks for any info!
Google Damascus video productions. You should be able to find it there.