Super quick question.
Is it ok to glass over paint? I want to paint my entire board before I glass it, will the glass bond? (It’s poly). Or does the paint create a ‘weak’ layer between the resin and the poly?
Cheers in advance.
Super quick answer - yes it works.
Quick answer - yes it works, lots of pro builders airbrush the foam before glassing. It might harm the bond slightly, but not that you would ever notice.
Slower answer - yes it works, but you need to be careful which paint you use, and how you thin it. Water based paints, and many swear by Nova Color paints. Liquitex paints are also very good. Water based rattle cans work also, but not as pretty.
Slow answer. Some colors (red) give problems. Lots of info - Google search.
Kokua and Cleanlines, where are you?
Nova color and MTN Gold. FTW
Both of those are respectively the Highest pigment concentrations in their categories.
What does that mean? Less shit you dont need on the board and less coats. Cut with acrylic and distilled water. tap water=crap water
As I see it, boards frequently buckle as a result of inadequate shear strength at the resin/glass interface. Anything you do that weakens the bond there can contribute to a catastrophic failure, particularly if the board is “thin”’ say under about 2.5 inches and has a (unfortunately typical) lightweight glass job.
but it’s yours to do with however you want…
Such great answers from you guys. Full of information and entertaining!
Flat interior house paint. For years.
Hundreds of thousands of boards have been painted under the glass, so its proven to work. A few hundred of boards have been built by some neophytes with information supplied by sways and have failed. There are pitfalls to watch out for, and some paints just don’t work well at all. Thin dry coats are better than puddling, and wet resin over some paints will prevent crystalization; that’s what I know off the top. Wet paint equals failure.
…hey Every surfer I m not Kokua or Cleanlines, but in all these years I have been painting more boards than you can imagine.
I use tempera.
-Ghettorat, what do you mean exactly with “wet resin over some paints”? Thanks
–edit:I m checking that in this pict couple of stains appears; however, not in real life…may be a “cream” that I pass over the boards when they are finished and I did not wiped well.
Here s an example:
Hey Reverb,
Those colors are really bright and vivid and the lines between colors look great. Did you paint right on the foam or do you do a thin coat of resin first?
Also, how long do you wait for the paint to dry?
Thanks,
Jason
…hello Melikefish, I paint directly on the foam.
The first tip for a perfect paint job is to have a perfect finished shape; may be because of that is that Im so picky with this labor. You cannot do a solid deep dark color (paint) if you have scratches or gauges on or near the stringer (s) or tail or whatever; if you see a clear board you ll see plenty of these things; This is one of the things why you do not see deep bright color work (paint) on most boards; more work!
I have my technique that depends on the color; here s other tip: a color with White as a base covers a lot more so you airbrush less coats; solid deep Reds, etc needs more coats (I do not like fades or those types of color work).
Here s an important Tip: not all the coats are diluted the same.
Most of the times I do not wait too much; I dry them with a hairdryer then glass it over.; but sometimes, if ifts too late I let it overnight with one more coat.
slow down brother whats not done to-day will be done to-morrow
cheers huie
That is beautiful
Thanks, I really appreciate the advice. Almost done with board #2, and have noticed it makes life easier in later steps to get everything smooth from the beginning.
The factory I work at gets alot of painted blanks, and most of them get either clear sprayed or painted with resin before glassing. Not exactly sure what type of paint the shapers are using but I’d assume its water based acrylic.
Also melikefish have you thought of just using resin to do a foam stain. You paint it on or just squegee it on depending on your design. just another option if your worried about which paint to buy.
**McDing **i tought i was the only one using interior house paint hahahahaha. Due the paint is waterbased i was thinking it’s a good one to try. did it with a sponge roller coz the design was so simple. i used it just with one board, a foamie alaia.
I am on a new trip.More work and a bit heavier but looks unreal.
- Board is 8 foot egg. About all I want to build these days
2)glass board with six oz bottom and 4 ounce deck, Hotcoat as normal
3)sand deck and rail down to bottom apex. I went to 150 grit
- do art work on sanded deck. I use acrylic/resin resin pins etc. When done scuff artwork lightly with re scotchbright
5)Glass deck with 4 oz.Use zippier lap (doesn’t go under…just to apex. Sand as normal.
5)gloss and polish as normal
Why you say with sly skepticism? It’s becuase it looks unreal and the weight is negligible. The artwork we are doing is with a brush just like an acrylic on canvas.The xtra 4 ounce levels out the bump s from the brush. I also do it over resin pins which outline art. Sorry…no pics. Will send some later
Last but not least,if you fuck up the artwork on a sanded finish you can sand it off.
Cleanlines— When I had my own glass shop; I did paint on a hotcoat fairly oftem. I would spray clear, gloss coat or cover with four ounce. A good example would be if you wanted to tint or opaque the glass job and then hot coat, sand, do art work on the sanded hotcoat and then glass four ounce over the art work. When done this way you can also place your lam/logo under the clear four ounce.
Cool thanks for the advice, I tried the foam stain on this board. I like the way it looks and it didnt add too much weight. I am having a difficult time getting the tape right though. I keep on getting epoxy sneaking in under the tape. I am using the green 233 tape, and my cutlaps almost looked good, and came off real easy with an exacto but there was a bunch of leakage. Any recommendations on taping off?