Hi
I’m doing a glass job and I’m now wondring if there would be any problems connected with doing a 4oz glas on the first layer, top and bottom, and then do a 6oz on top of that?
I’m jusing laymans epoxy…
Thanks for any help!
Christian
pau…aloha and mahalo!
Hey
Thanks for the reply I was thinking something similar to the flatter weave of the 4oz, but in my rush to get things moving I just grabbed the nearest cloth and that happened to be the 4oz and now I have to stick with it that way around as I have laminated top and bottom.
Do you think the 4/6oz combo is a very light glass job? I did another board with 4/oz top and bottom, it’s very light but seems to hold up, though I have only had it out about 8 times…
Thanks
Christian
Actually I’ve heard that if you mix the weights using epoxy you can get a stronger lam. just make more work at the laps.
Sounds like you’ve already done the lam, should be fine.
For future reference, it is best to wet out all the layers at once to save a bit of wieght and time. Just cut the first layer to the rail apex (clear) or to the lap line (if using tints). and the second layer 1-2" below the rail line as normal. Logos can go between the 2 layers.
The exception to this is for swirls, cloth inlays ect that need the laps cut and then a clear layer over the top.
No problem doing a 6oz over 4oz. That’s the way I’d do it… with the heaver cloth on top, so the thicker, stronger layer gets the brunt of any impacts.
I would, however, do both layers at the same time, so you have literally no risk of contaminating the lam/lam bond with oil, dust, etc., especially with epoxy, which can be tricky to keep absolutely clean.
Hey that sounds like I’ll be fine with doing it that way round…
I did them over two intervals as I was planning on doing an opague colour on the first layer and then a clear one on top of that with logo/dravings in between…
Now I have done a quite bad cutlap so I’m gonna do the top layer tinted the same colour as the bottom and then reatempt the lap!
Thanks for the words!
Christian
Don’t forget… you can always mask a bad cutlap with a creative pinline. If I really screwed up, and wider line is needed, I’ll sometimes do two, side-by-side… one thick and one thin… with different but matching colors.
Usually you do a cutlap on the bottom, but a freelap on the deck if it’s clear. But if you’re going to tint the deck lam, you gotta cut it. You can do this pretty easily by waiting for it to kick just enough to handle it, then flip it and cut it freehand with a razor blade while you can still peel it off. Don’t forget to put some wax paper down on the rack!
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I did them over two intervals as I was planning on doing an opague colour on the first layer and then a clear one on top of that with logo/dravings in between…
that’s precisely how i do it…also saves me from having to grind down the cutlap from the first layer…no worries.
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Now I have done a quite bad cutlap so I’m gonna do the top layer tinted the same colour as the bottom and then reatempt the lap!
and G-d saw your crappy cutlap, and said “LET THERE BE PINLINES TO COVER THIS MESS”…and there were pinlines…and it was good.
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and G-d saw your crappy cutlap, and said “LET THERE BE PINLINES TO COVER THIS MESS”…and there were pinlines…and it was good.
Classic!
I’m doing the board with a pink, tinted top and a black opaque bottom, that I wanted to wrap up unto the top abot 2in.
I’m deffenetly gonna do a pinline, but I’m not sure it can still be called pinline if its 1in wide…
How do you follow the tape line when the coulor of the lap is opaque? I have seen the tools I can make, but it would be greate to have the touch! ( I can work on it!)
Thanks for the great advice on gods own pinlines!
Christian
I’ve done 6oz over 5 oz. Never had any problems, so glass away I say.