i just recently glassed my first board and it didnt come out the way i wanted. It came out ok, rideable, but its appearance sucks. you can see the lines of the bottom layer of fiberglass on the deck where they overlap. How do i not do this? thanks
i just recently glassed my first board and it didnt come out the way i > wanted. It came out ok, rideable, but its appearance sucks. you can see > the lines of the bottom layer of fiberglass on the deck where they > overlap. How do i not do this? thanks …GEE Izzy it couldbe a few different reasons,type of glass,type of resin,weight,and layers of glass,your cut,etc,etc,etc,was it on a clear board? or with paint?Herb.
no it was on a clear board with nothing on it. im pretty sure its not my knifetriming or resin. I was just wondering if theres any technique that i could use that would blend things on the deck better. thanx! izzy
no it was on a clear board with nothing on it. im pretty sure its not my > knifetriming or resin. I was just wondering if theres any technique that i > could use that would blend things on the deck better. thanx! izzy… sorry for asking but are you doing lap cuts with heavier than 4oz. glass?Herb.
This sounds sneak and may sound weak to some of you, but let me know. The first thing I do is lam the bottom with very little lap(only going to the fulcrum of the rail; on a low rail it would be very low and on a boxy rail a bit higher). This way you don’t see the imperfection on the deck of the board. Then when you cut your deck patch, make sure to go as close as possible to the edge of the bottom lap(butt matching, yes it is kinda tough because cloth can be pulled to stretch etc.) Now, lay the top layer of cloth over the patch and cut. Yes you will have a lap on the bottom that will show darker(slightly if you have a proper mek/resin ratio. Here is another sneky thing that I can see people snearing at. When you put the top cloth on your deck, trim it only slightly past the tucked edge(no lap). Make sure to squeegy it tight to the edge and then maybe flatten with a glove covered thumb. When dry, take a sharp blade, sureform, grinder etc. Pros: clean looking, balanced glass job with no sanding problems of laps etc. Slightly(minimal almost nothing, but…) lighter. Cons: weaker bottom lap for those who clinch like there is no more tomorrow when duck diving. However, even boards with laps don’t lap far enough for big fingers Mcgillicuty to pressure dent there bottom. Like to hear what you think too HERB.
well thanks for the help but Herb, i dont think i used higher than four ounce on the bottom, i used a four on the bottom and a six on the top. Steve- thank you for your explanation but i dont understand what you mean by the mek/resin ratio. thanks agai though-izzy
izzy…if you’re lap cutting it will show your lap,just run a pinline around the lap cutline and it will help blend things…if you are doing freelap you’re most likely not getting the glass to lay down well enough or a uneven cut with a lot of stringies will show,or a dry lap that either was not saturated well enough and/or, it went off to slowly and sucked THE RESIN into the blank leaving micro-air. sorry if I wasn’t more help,good luck,…Steve I’ve done just what you have described,in fact my last “fish” that I just completed with “S” glass(S-2 hexel) I DID SOME OF THOSE STEPS,I’M still looking for someone will s-glass exp. to give me some answers,darn I was just at basham’s I should have asked brad…DOPE!
izzy…if you’re lap cutting it will show your lap,just run > a pinline around the lap cutline and it will help blend things…if > you are doing freelap you’re most likely not getting the glass to lay down > well enough or a uneven cut with a lot of stringies will show,or a dry lap > that either was not saturated well enough and/or, it went off to slowly > and sucked THE RESIN into the blank leaving micro-air. sorry if I wasn’t > more help,good luck,…Steve I’ve done just what you have > described,in fact my last “fish” that I just completed with > “S” glass(S-2 hexel) I DID SOME OF THOSE STEPS,I’M still looking > for someone will s-glass exp. to give me some answers,darn I was just at > basham’s I should have asked brad…DOPE! What was your experience with s glass? I think I used it once…is it stiffer(a different weave patter). When you cut it it does pull and loose shape ass much? I remember the I loved the feel of the board when it was finished.
What was your experience with s glass? I think I used it once…is it > stiffer(a different weave patter). When you cut it it does pull and loose > shape ass much? I remember the I loved the feel of the board when it was > finished. S-GLASS WAS COOL ABOUT 6-8 YEARS AGO BUT THE COST VERSAS ADDED STRENGTH FACTOR REALLY WASN’T WORTH THE PRICE, MY FACTORY DOES’NT EVEN USE IT ANYMORE. 6 OZ E CLOTH IS STILL STRONGER THAN 4 OZ S AND WAY CHEAPER JUST KEEP THE HOT COAT SANDED OFF(JUST COVERING CLOTH THREADS)TO LOSE RESIN WEIGHT. IT(S) IS STIFFER, SO OVERLAPS WANT TO PULL AWAY SORT OF, ALSO GUYS BOARDS WERE SNAPPING WITH S SO “NO MAS” THANK YOU. WARP(E) IS THE TICKET THESE DAYS.
What was your experience with s glass? I think I used it once…is it > stiffer(a different weave patter). When you cut it , it does pull and loose > shape ass much? I remember the I loved the feel of the board when it was > finished…YEA,it’s much stiffer/springy stuff. The end roll I aquired will/is unraveling at the ends,when you cut it…it falls apart,when you glass it the lap springs back off the blank(even during gelling)it seems to saturate more so it will weight the board down alittle more . What ever flaws that are in the S-2 WILL STAY IN YOUR LAM or most of it!..Then why use it? It’s tough as nails!!! I built one with S-2 12 years ago and it fell down a full flight of stairs nose over tail and all I could find was one small shatter on the rail!The diff. between E-glass and S-glass is S-2 IS A flat weave (the strands are not pieces of fiber ,but one piece strands).Herb.
S-GLASS WAS COOL ABOUT 6-8 YEARS AGO BUT THE COST VERSAS ADDED STRENGTH > FACTOR REALLY WASN’T WORTH THE PRICE, MY FACTORY DOES’NT EVEN USE IT > ANYMORE. 6 OZ E CLOTH IS STILL STRONGER THAN 4 OZ S AND WAY CHEAPER JUST > KEEP THE HOT COAT SANDED OFF(JUST COVERING CLOTH THREADS)TO LOSE RESIN > WEIGHT. IT(S) IS STIFFER, SO OVERLAPS WANT TO PULL AWAY SORT OF, ALSO GUYS > BOARDS WERE SNAPPING WITH S SO “NO MAS” THANK YOU. WARP(E) IS > THE TICKET THESE DAYS. …I like the feel I get out of a S-glassed board ,but it’s not worth the hassle!If I wouldn’t have gotten the S-glass in trade…I WOULD HAVE USE E-GLASS GLADLY!!!