Sorry the search isn’t working for some reason so I have to post this here…
got a shaped 9’2" urethane for my birthday.
we’re vacuum balsa lamming it with 1/16" balsa
I’m trying to figure out a strong but not too heavy schedule with what I got.
will this be strong enough using epoxy?
bottom
2oz under then 1/6 balsa then 4oz warp top
top
4oz warp under then 1/16 balsa then 4oz S top
Do I need to put more or do I have to go out and get some 6oz?
All I have is 4oz E, some 4oz warp and a little 4oz S left
Used up all my 6oz Volan
would epoxy make it stronger than poly?
again this is a standard shaped clark blank so it’s already heavy and I don’t need to use epoxy…
Been think about using UV on the outside of the balsa…
then I can get a normal polished gloss coat
Sorry again I apologize for this numbskull question…
I hate when people don’t look things up as well…
Seems like search is broken
Quote:
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That’s plenty of glass, One. I’m using 4 oz E everywhere, just one layer above & below 1/16" balsa. Did test panels first & its crazy strong.
On the bottom, I pre-wet the glass & bagged top & bottom in one hit. The balsa stayed basically dry - the epoxy just sticking to a paper-thin area on the wood’s surfaces. The deck balsa, I wanted stronger so I pre-wet the glass (both layers) and then also wet out the underside of the balsa before spreading out the glass, flipping it onto the blank, spreading out the outer glass, and pulling vac through peel-ply & absorbent. I know it worked because the deck balsa looks darker than the bottom skin (but not so much it looks bad). Both sides bonded to the foam (2# EPS) just fine, even without sealing the EPS or spreading any resin onto it in the laminating.
As I understand it, not much point in using S glass unless you’re using epoxy, as poly resin will crack before the glass flexes as much as S can. E glass & poly are comparably flexible.
I like the time epoxy gives me when I’m pre-wetting, laying out, plopping on a skin, pulling tape, and getting it into a bag. The balsa skins stay together just fine if I spread out the glass on the underside, squeegee it down nice & smooth, and flip the blank down on it. Then flip the blank back over, this time with the skin, and you can pull your masking tape before it even goes in the bag. No peeling/sanding off tape after the resin is cured…I don’t think poly would give you quite enough time for that.
with balsa over Clark I would think that 2oz would be plenty.
figure that 6oz bottom and 2x6oz deck is standard, so 2oz balsa 2oz is forsure more than 6oz equizalent. maybe 2oz balsa 4oz for the deck. If you really want some strength 2 oz balsa 4oz 2oz deck. then your looking at 8oz + balsa got to be worth more than the standard 12oz longboard deck I would think.
The sandskins should add a lot of strength over straight glass.
(no experience yet just a lot of reading and common sence)
I think I’d make sure & use at least 4 oz on the outside of all the sandwiches. Not really even for initial strength, although it would end up that way. Its because the 2 oz lays down so flat, there’s hardly any weave to fill with a hot coat (sanding coat, with epoxy). You’d end up sanding through & patching and with only 1/16 balsa, if you dig a circle on a sand-through, you can be at foam really fast. I’d go 2 oz under, 4 oz over, and fill the weave with a generous hotcoat (that you mostly sand off anyway).
Over urethane using epoxy and a wet layup for the bottom I would use pre wet 2oz with 120mls epoxy, balsa then 4oz + 220mls epoxy, for the deck the same plus 4oz patches in the standing area and push off hand area. I’m being a bit generous with the resin.
