Ok one more for you glassers…
From reading the archives I see that I’ll need to cut some inverted 'V’s on the glass at the nose and the tail corners so it folds over… will this leave a little bit of the nose / tail corners uncovered? Do I need to ‘patch’ these as with the crack in a swallow tail?
Thanks,
Santiago
Yep you will have to make some cuts.If done right you won’t have to put any patches on.However as a beginner I would save some of that tint resin just in case.I have glassed few boards in my time and still have to add a patch every now and then,it’s no biggie.You can practice your cuts by stealing one of Mom’s (or wifes) old sheets.Just lay it over the blank or an old board and mess around with the scissors.Don’t get caught. RB
I hear ya… Thanks.
you can stretch and compress the weave of the glass as you fold the laps to get by with less of a V cut and get by with more of a straight cut. This is where a little practice can really help.
Make some practice cuts by laying a piece of paper over the top of the board and pretending that it is fiberglass cloth.
Good idea!
Ok I’ve not tried this But this has given me an idea, when your doing the sheet thing try pintching the sheet in with bull dog clips, this will hold the cloth in place so you can experiment with moving the V’s and cut around, mark them on the sheet when your happy,
Then cut the 'pinches leaving about5-10mm of the ‘pinch’ then flatten to the board and adjust the cut so it meets up perfectly, once you have done this glue the sheet to card and cut out, now use this as template for cutting the glass ( on a flat clean surface), line up on the board and tape the glass to the board with 233 tape and remove as you go or put a little lam resin on the rails to hold the edges in place,
kind of like a cheaters cut lap, sounds abit time consuming, but could easer than cut lapping for a beginer like myself.
When you cut the glass for your laps the cloth needs to overlap not meet flush.Here is how to do a nose cut.1)Lay down glass and trim around the whole outline.2)Make straight longwise center cut to the tip of the stringer.2)fold one side under and trim it where it is flush with the rail.3)fold the other side under and do the same.By doing this you will have a "V’ cut that is perfect.Yep you will have two layers on the tip of the nose but that’s the way it is done.When the resin is curing take a bit of the resin and drip it on the tip.This same principle applies to the tail.Kind of hard to explain but I could show you in 5 seconds (PS…and yes if you use tint it will be a bit darker on the overlaps.Go to the suf shop and look real close at a pro glass job and you will see what I mean.)You can do it. RB
Howzit Mr. Clean,My compliments to to you, I thiink you are the first to mention the tip about putting the drop of resin on the nose and tail tip or corners. That’s one of the first things you learn about laminating boards and it’s amazing that it hasn’t been mentioned before. Since I’ve been using UV resin I wait til just before I take the board outside to cure since UV doesn’t gel inside. Before UV I would use the resin that had dripped on to the floor. Aloha,Kokua
Yo Kokua…about a hundred years ago I was working in this big glass shop.They had a huge Hawaiian glasser named “Beeg” Wilton Keihuma who hotcoated with a wide squeegee.It was the damdest thing I ever saw.He would mix up enough resin for three longboards and make a pour down the middle of the first board.He then took the squeegee and made like three passes down one side catching the runoff in the bucket.He then went to the other side and did the same thing… continuing on down the line until all the boards were done.He sucked down beers like they were water and nevah stumbled.I was an “apprentice” sander back then and those hotcoats were unreal.He used to pick me up by the ankles and shake da dust off me. RB
Howzit Mr. Clean, Strange way of hotcoating for sure, did they come out with a textured deck effect or like a normal hot coat. I used to do textured decks on my own boards with a squeegee but man they could definitly leave you with a mean rash. Aloha,Kokua
Nah they were smooth as heck.Back then the boards were heavy double 10 ounce glass logs, and weight was not a factor.It was more like pouring the stuff on.Probably a half gallon per side.LOL RB