Gloss coat question

I just applied the final coat of resin to my board and it isnt perfectly smooth. Should i sand it with a high grit sand paper like 240 then progressively get bigger grit paper then wet sand it and buff it out. will that remove all the scratches that the low grit sand paper puts in the gloss coat? also when i do my other side with the gloss coat how do i prevent stretch marks and runs in the gloss coat? thanks

JJ- With some good help from the group on this board I just finished two boards, both were my first full gloss and polished boards. Wetsand with 400 then 600. Keep the water on it and take your time to remove scratches from the previous step. Any small problem areas could be done with 150 grit and then work on them with 400 and then 600. I did all of this by hand rather than with the sander. I just used an open palm, circular pattern and took my time. After the wetsand use your polishing compound on the wool pad or whatever you have and get after the polishing step. The end result should be a nice polished finish that is stronger and yes, heavier than the sanded finish. As far as tips on the next gloss coat you do. Keep your work area as clean and dust/bug/breeze free. Proper temperature and humidity is also important. Try to pull the tape before the gloss goes off and work on the runs around the rail line as well. Hope that helps. Tom Sterne>>> I just applied the final coat of resin to my board and it isnt perfectly > smooth. Should i sand it with a high grit sand paper like 240 then > progressively get bigger grit paper then wet sand it and buff it out. will > that remove all the scratches that the low grit sand paper puts in the > gloss coat? also when i do my other side with the gloss coat how do i > prevent stretch marks and runs in the gloss coat? thanks

Gloss coats are very tricky. Tips: Dust free and breeze free enviraonment. Strain resind through a nylon panty hose(serious). Make sue to add recommended amount of Cat. for the temp and humidity etc. Mix the cat. really really good with adding too much air into the resin mixture. Brush on lengthwise, then laterally and then lengthwise–threee quick passes and no more!!!Don’t play with the resin even if you seee a bristle or eye lash or even a drip. If you let the resin settle long enough it will settle like glass. Pull the tape when you see the resin slighlty geling. Let cure. Scrape any zits and the taped edge with a new razor blade. Sand very lighlty and brief with the 240, then work your way through 400, 600 and can even take it to 1200, but after 600 a good compound can be used and then the final rub-out with a #2 polish. You will have a very pretty baord, but I still get lazy and avoid this elbow grease step. Good luck. Steve

Some corrections…sorry. It should have read: Gloss coats are very tricky. Tips: Dust free and breeze free environment. Strain resin through a nylon panty hose(serious). Make sure to add the recommended amount of Cat. for the temp and humidity etc. Mix the cat. really really good without adding too much air into the resin mixture. Brush on lengthwise, then laterally and then lengthwise–three quick passes and no more!!!Don’t play with the resin even if you see a bristle or eye lash or even a drip. If you let the resin settle long enough it will settle like glass. Pull the tape when you see the resin slighlty geling. Let cure. Scrape any zits and the taped edge with a new razor blade. Sand very lighlty and brief with the 240, then work your way through 400, 600 and can even take it to 1200, but after 600 a good compound can be used and then the final rub-out with a #2 polish.

Here’s a tip, machine the board in the exact same pattern with every grit. That way you are sure to progressively remove the scratches(wheelies). I use the softest Power Pad they make. On my personal boards I don’t polish the deck because it gets waxed anyway. Take your time and don’t be afraid of the buffer. Tape the board to the rack so you don’t spin it against the wall. Use caution around glass on fins and hot-coat pinlines. Remember, polishing surfboards is like building sandcastles. You get the thing shiny and beautful, but when the customer throws it into the back of a truck or onto the sand, your rub-out job is pretty much history.