I checked the archives and couldn’t find the answer i was looking for! I just finished my gloss coat and it came out near perfect thanks to all of the great posts on here I read. But it was the Purdy Pure Bristle brush that made it easy!
So here’s my question. So since my gloss coat came out so smooth and clean, except for a few little specks do I need to sand the whole board or just sand the small bumps? it looks so shinny I almost don’t want to do anything. I guess i got lucky on this one!
If it’s just a couple of zits, why bother? You’ll end up taking down the zits and having to wet sand the whole thing to 600 before buffing. Diminishing returns in my opinion.
I do this all of the the time. My poly glosses are near perfect because I use new brushes from the SHerman WIlliams contractor store that are clones of the Purdys. I buy a three inch for $5.Use one for top and one for bottom. Acetone costs are expensive. I am not in to mass production anymore. Have fun
If you got a great gloss, with only one or two zits, leave it alone. Rub out and polish the rail seams only. those few zits give you bragging rights, as to how good you are, as a glosser. The best gloss I ever did, had one zit on the deck, and three on the bottom. When I showed that board to Hobie, applying for a shaping job, he tried to hire me on the spot as a glasser. I declined, and told him I would only shape. That’s how I got hired as a shaper. But it was the glassing and gloss, that got his attention.
Okay makes sense, buy i’m way to much of a perfectionist. So here’s a question, can you clean up the zits with 400 or 600 and then just polish the board? How’s that turn out?
The short answer is yes. You’ll have to be very localized in the fine sanding, and even then on the polish out, that area may appear different than the rest of the board. Depends on how much wax rose to the surface of the gloss. The final polish may, or may not, even everything out. Me, I’d just do a final buff and polish, and take pride in how the gloss came off the brush.
Yeah, I think I will. The compond I’m usimg cuts pretty good too. I just want to get this puppy in the water! Two more quick questions. On one of the rails you can see just slight bit of weave. Is that an issue? Got carried away with the 320. Second how long do I have to wait for everything to cure before i ride it?
Aloha Mike,
Depends on how large the exposed area is. I’d do a light ‘‘finger tip wipe’’ of some gloss resin, or some clear acrylic enamel, as a sealer, and when cured, a light touch with 600, and a quick light rub out, by hand. As to cure time, before surfing, that depends on how lightly constructed the board is. On my last board I waited 2 weeks. Not on purpose, it just worked out that way. I’d give any board, these days, at least 3 or 4 days after compleation.
Yeah your right, although it is glassed with two layers of 7.5 ounce volan. I’m gonna wait untill I’m off again on Thursday
Sometimes I just razor blade the seam and ride it.
You can surf them, then polish 'em up to sell.
If you use the thumb trick when glossing,
Nearly no seam at all.
not many folks know that ‘‘no masking tape’’ technique of glossing. Timeing is everything, eh? Ronald Patterson was the guy that showed me the technique, in 1958. Later that year I bought a new Velzy&Jacobs Bump, that on close inspection of the rails, I could see that was how that board was glossed. Ahhhh, the memories.
So you gonna share it with us? I’d love to know how to do it.
I checked out your website, love your designs. You’re are da man. Nice stuff. I had a surfboard shop when the shortboard craze started. I was my life Surf in the morning, Open the shop. Build and shape surfboards at night. Then I got married and joined corporate America. I still, to this day, regret not sticking with it. Building this board has brought all that back… This time it will be for the love of it as a retired Ole surfer that loves to noseride!
Sorry drifted off there for a minute. So share the edge trick!
I’m not sure I could properly describe the technique. It is best understood by seeing it done. When I was told that some guys were glossing without tapeing off, I did not believe it. But when it was demonstrated for me, I instantly understood how to do it. If I ever do another surfboard workshop, I’ll demonstrate the technique, in the dry, on a surfboard. It has to be timed within a very few minutes of the set time of the resin, for a good result.
Couldn’t you wait until the gloss coat gels and walk around the edge of the board with a razor blade? Then with a putty knife and peel it away?
That would make a great YouTube video!
After all of the posts on here and the ideas, I think I’m going to go ahead and sand the board. I’ll start with 400 then 600 and polish it from there.
I also want to thank both ( Barry and Bill ) of you guys for helping me out… Man you guys are legends around here and the industry. I’m honored!
Capt - If you are wanting to get rid of swirl and sanding marks Id suggest taking it down to 1200 (400-600-800-1200 all wet) and then polish.
Unless you have some really heavy cutting compond you will most likely still see your sanding marks if only taken to 600.
But at the same time I usually dont go past 600 when I polish (its just a surfboard after all) - My go to longboard doesnt even have the hotcoat sanded - someday (maybe)…
I don’t bother with a nice glossy finish, but I do admire the boards that have it. The most I’ll do is sand it down to 1200 but no polishing. 600 is usually enough for me.
…hello, the thing is: all the boards you see there to sell were polished; you do not leave the gloss coat alone if you sell boards.
A perfect gloss coat starts with 400 grit (without pressure), if you start with finer grit you only burn the surface but not cuts through properly and you cannot get rid of the wax surface to have a bright gloss.
So you have there a perfect coat; after you started to sand you ll see why all the commercial boards were polished (sanded)
The seam gone with the polisher and the 400 grit.
400 grit sometimes is too much for the rails; so in this case that you have a perfect coat, start light with 500 or heavy with 600 then retouch by hand without a block with 500, 600 and 1000.
If in the rails you have some drips, ridges etc you should use a very thick super soft pad to polish it down with 400 grit without burns; They are not available you should make yours starting with a normal super soft by Ferro or make one from zero. You can get rid of these imperfections by hand too. Start with 500 and a rubbery block with water/soap. Then 600 and 1000 by hand without the block.
In all the curved tips go by hand.
…yeah, I did my last one a few hours ago.
Guys thanks for all your support. My board turned out great! I’ve had a chance to ride it and it has exceeded my expectations! i will create a new post with what I’ve learned with this recent build.