Gloss coat sticktness

I seem to have this issue everytime. I gloss one side with the brush on method, peel the tape off 15 min into curing, and let it cure for a day. Heres what happens on occasion.


  1. Right on and below the tape line is some type of sticky residue. Im not sure if its from the tape or the resin leaking through. My guess is both. I use 220 to get it off but the process is a pain. Im wondering if theres anything better to use.


  1. Sometimes when the deck cures, I get a ripple effect of the resin. The resin looks perfectly fine when it goes on. Flat, clear, no bumps. But 15 minutes later, it looks choppy and bunches up usually on the rails. As if too much wax additive was added into the batch… thing is I bought the resin as GLOSS resin from surfsource, so its already premixed no matter how well I shake it.


Whether it’s a hotcoat or gloss, you should use as little resin as possible. This kind of thing takes practice, but laying either coat on too thick causes a number of problems. And, your gloss coat probably did run, if it’s as you described. That’s a combination of too much resin and too slow kick time.

Don’t buy your tape from 3m, directly. Go to this web page. 12 rolls of 3M 233+ 1" for $28.38. Other widths available. You can buy in single rolls if you don’t need a lot.

Scroll down until you see the green tape!


That’s the tape reacting with the resin. Use better tape.



Sounds like what’s known as “orange peeling”. Caused by heat, direct sun exposure, or contamination (dirt, oil, grease).

Sammy is the man. I experienced the exact same issues and the 3M resin resistent tape solved the residue issue. One more potential issue with the sanding and gloss coat along the rails is the thickness of your resin application. If it looks like a “landslide” try hard brushing the rails to get a thinner application. Seems that the weight of a thick application caused mine to get that “landslide” ripple. Also no air movement really helps. I even turn off my exhaust fan while glossing.

Yeah woody thats exactly what it is it looks like a landslide. I’ll do that next time, use a heavier hand to get a lighter coat. And Sammy I’ll try better tape. Sammy I’ll look around for that tape. Thank you gents.

Sammy nailed it. You have to use a good quality auto tape. 3M 231 or similar. Cleaning off tape residue is a drag. Also try a good quality brush. One that has long brissels and is squared off on the end. Hot coat brushes don’t push the resin around as evenly. I cross stroke twice before my final nose to tail strokes. This helps to evenly distribute the resin. Remember, this resin tends to go off slowly. Thick resin will run downhill. Especially on the rails. So thinner resin on the deck will help.

Good luck,

Barry Snyder

Im about to order some of the 231 tape. Looks like the stuff I need. And I think my hot coating skills need to be questioned here. When I hotcoat I never really left a thin thin coat of resin on the board. I always kept it thick and sanded into it. So with what Im hearing I should probably do a deeper and stronger stroke with the brush. I feel like I have too much resin on the hotcoat.

And damn this tape is pricy. Minimum orders are 12 rolls on

Yes it is I use it like it’s gold! Check around your area also, i found that body shop suppliers price some of the stuff we use more competitively. Stir sticks, mixing cups, tape, sand paper, etc…

I use painters Frog tape. No real issues with adhesive residue. If you do you, you can do one of two things… use what is called a rubber cement pick up remover.


Bascially is a firm gum-like material that picks up any tape residue. Just slide it anywhere you see residue.


Or, just wipe it down with a cloth that has been dipped in acetone.


And like others have said… you are leaving way to much resin on the board. You want to apply the thinnest coat possible. The brush I use is one designed for staining. Its bristels are shorter and do not load up as much resin. That might help you. But it really comes down to technique above all. Cross once firmly, cross twice firmly, and then brush nose to tail lightly and that is all you should be doing.


You may also be not using enough catalyst. It should kick in about 10-15 minutes and then be dry to touch in about 40. Anything longer and you are giving the resin too much time to run off the board.




its all to do with the timeing the room temp  and the experience (or lack off)

**the residue is resin not kicking quick enough? **


        ** the 233+ will fix that residue prblm    but sadly you will not perfect glosscoats till you have done enough**

harsh words but true


sammy   thats a good price



 cheers huie

sammy, Huie and the boys have all said what is true,
but In addition to the skill, correct temps and thinness required is the fact that Gloss resin needs more catylist in order to kick at 10 minutes

Sammy. thanks for the link. and as in general, thanks for all the help your giving me on my other questions. much appreciated brother

Yes. Always use quality 3M products for all your surfboard needs.

3M makes many types of tapes that can be used for surfamabird building.  Always check if the adhesive is solvent / heat resistant. There are tapes that are waterborne adhesive specific, ie blue tape, painters tape etc. (that is where you have gotten into trouble). There are tapes that are UV tapes..made to be in direct sunlight (not so good for solvent or water) or there are tapes that are made for auto, 233, 231, fineline etc. Those are made to be covered with oil based, acetone, cynide, eatting mo-fo liquids. (thats what you need)  Nothing as harsh as a bucket of poly resin with a glob of MEPK to heat up a little adhesive.


3M is the leader in automotive refinishing products.  They don't give the stuff away for free.  But if you want to speed up your production time, and sleep sound at night, get the right stuff.     Just think now, would you pay 1$-3$ more for a roll of tape, save about 20 mins..and not have to scrape off that smeggy stuff around you rail line?


I'm just saying.


by the way, same thing goes for the sand paper stuff too. Use the auto grade stuff, stay away from the wood working or general contracting stuff.

The residue you refer to can be beast removed with some masking tape. Simply stick it on the goo and then rip it off - just like leg waxing. Works a treat but takes a while. Hope that helps.



I use the 3/4" Green 233 when glossing the deck. When it’s dry I prep the seam and totally remove the ridge with a 100grit paint stick.

Then I switch to cheap 1 1/2" Tartan for the second side, taping slightly on the waxed surface. The tape residue doesnt stick on the waxed surface, the Tartan is thinner so it leaves a thinner line. 

Leaves the finished rail clean and cutting the rails is easier, plus you never get that little white line at the seam.  The key is that prep after shooting the the deck.

Nice tip, thanks Gene!!! 

PS is there anything else to your “prepping the seam” other than the 100 grit stick?  (I usually take them down with a razor blade before sanding…)

I don’t use a razor blade on this step, just the 100 grit stick because it leaves a perfect straight line to tape to.  

On the final rail work for the rub out I use the 100 grit stick directly on the seam followed by a 180 grit stick then razor, then 320wet - 400wet - 600wet.  I know starting with 100 sounds coarse but when you keep it on the seam the razor will cut all the scratches out.

Gene’s tricks always blow my mind and I have been messing with this stuff for 50 years.

…sometimes, for different reasons you cannot use the 233, etc tape; with the cheap tapes, you ll find that some leave that glue and others do not.

Anyway, here s the simple trick to get rid of that residue: monomere. Wipe it, let it act for a minute, then pass again; ok, no more glue.


-I do not get it why those razor blades, 100 grit paper, etc…

You put one side coat, then under (about 1/16) the seam you put the cheaper tape (like Gene says) apply the other side coat. When you ll start to polish, you do not need anything extra for that seam; you can get rid of it with the starter grit, that s a 400 grit and a super soft ferro pad; or if you start to sand with 320, you hit the seam with that 320 but slightly. Always this with low RPM s. and dry sand (to see).

So, no marks, no possible tiny “holes” from razor blades, no nicks from heavier grits on rookie hands, no burns due that 1/16 under, etc.