Have a question regarding tinting. I’m doing a complete redo of a tinted glosscoat (poss hotcoat) on an old longboard and I’m want hide a few blemishes and repairs (rails shatters, slight faded spots) in the process. I’ve read a couple of things where people mix a 1 to 1 ratio of tint and white. Is this a standard tint mix, or more of a semi-opaque mixture? The damages are so few and small that I’d rather error on a more transparent look.
Thanks,
HerbB
From the little I know about tints a little white will make it more opaque.
Anyone else???
Problem with a “little” tint is that it fades really fast.
Problem with a “little” pigment is that it splotches and gets really uneven!
Add the two, and you have real problems.
Add the correct amount of tint, and a little pig, it’s still uneven, but not too bad.
Add the correct amount of pig, and a little tint, and it’s evenly opaque, and even.
Add the correct amount of pig and tint…you get too much color and maybe no cure.
Tints will only accentuate any defects or repairs. Any tint must have a consistent undercoat color. Opaque hotcoats really don’t work either, since you can’t get them thick enough to provide even coverage (after sanding). On restorations, I use 4oz cloth pigmented opaque and a hotcoat with the same pigment. If I need to do a very light or pastel color, I’ll paint it and add a clear layer of 4 oz. over it (for durability). My advise, leave it as-is and maybe redo the previous repairs if they look bad…
The tint is pretty faded and bare in spots so based on what you’re saying, I may just sand it off and clear gloss. That is sans any tinting and just let the minor imperfections show.
Thanks for the responses.
HerbB
You might be surprised by how much you can pretty it up just with a little polishing. I’d try that before I started attacking things with a sander. Whaddya got to lose, y’know? If you sand away all the tinted hotcoat, you will have gotten into the glass some, which is a Bad Thing, weakening the board to an unacceptable extent.
Pete has mentioned that he uses additional cloth pigmented opaque plus an opaque hotcoat, which is ( in my far from humble opinion ) the only way to get an even color, the cloth forces you to make the whole color layer an even thickness which ya can’t do with a brush. I’d also add that it’s a Real Good Idea to pigment/color all the resin for glassing both sides and hotcoating both sides in one batch so your color will be consistent, then you can pour what you need into a smaller container, catalyse as need be and use it.
hope that’s of use
doc…