I just did my first gloss. I think you are supposed to polish next,right. I have an orange peel effect That I’m assuming i’m goint to have sand out. Does anyone have any hints as to what happened.Using polyester(1qt).,wax(10cc)Styrene(10cc)cat.(10cc). No fans or doors open. Thought I had everything right. Temps were aroud 85
I just did my first gloss. I think you are supposed to polish next,right. > I have an orange peel effect That I’m assuming i’m goint to have sand out. > Does anyone have any hints as to what happened.Using > polyester(1qt).,wax(10cc)Styrene(10cc)cat.(10cc). No fans or doors open. > Thought I had everything right. Temps were aroud 85 …The air temp was alittle too hot for the mix.Herb
Thanks a million Herb. the heat index has been around 105 for a while with no relief in sight. no A/C. just blood, sweat, and tears. The tears came when I saw my gloss job and it looked like a 10ft. orange peel. Very humid in my area. Anyways, Thanks again.
Thanks a million Herb. the heat index has been around 105 for a while with > no relief in sight. no A/C. just blood, sweat, and tears. The tears came > when I saw my gloss job and it looked like a 10ft. orange peel. Very humid > in my area. Anyways, Thanks again. humidity doesn’t help either…but you can save it(the gloss coat)just start your wetsanding with 320grit instead of 400grit.That should take the ripples out of the gloss,and leave you a nice shiney surface.Herb…speaking of SHINE…WHERE HAS MR.SHINE BEEN LATELY?
humidity doesn’t help either…but you can save it(the gloss coat)just > start your wetsanding with 320grit instead of 400grit.That should take the > ripples out of the gloss,and leave you a nice shiney > surface.Herb…speaking of SHINE…WHERE HAS MR.SHINE > BEEN LATELY? Yo Herb have you ever heard of a rubbing compound call “Tiger Cut”?I have some and it agressive as hell…will wipe out scratches really fast…I follow up with Surluster.I can’t recall the company that makes it but I got it at the local auto paint supplier…its kinda like liquid 320.I think that the boat guys use it to buff out jell coats.By the way…most of the pro polishers don’t use any water at all when sanding but that is a whole page in itself.
Yo Herb have you ever heard of a rubbing compound call “Tiger > Cut”?I have some and it agressive as hell…will wipe out scratches > really fast…I follow up with Surluster.I can’t recall the company that > makes it but I got it at the local auto paint supplier…its kinda like > liquid 320.I think that the boat guys use it to buff out jell coats.By the > way…most of the pro polishers don’t use any water at all when sanding > but that is a whole page in itself. …YEAH,I’ve heard,but I still wetsand, so I can put a little more elbow in to it w/o early burns.Meguars (sp?)makes the same stuff called swirl remover(like a liquid 320)but costly.I just use Brasso it’s cheaper and works great.Again ,I still prefer 320 wet/dry paper.I remember when Surluster was first used by Les Pronier back in 1974 LongBeach,Ca.(if you check the label you’ll find it’s mgf. in L.B.Ca.).I have moved on to a Granitized product that costs more,but is like Dolphin skin.There are located in SouthGate,Ca.next to Bell,Ca.My old inland homeytown,that I still have to pick up the keys to the city(my great grandparents were the owners/founders of Bell/Maywood).Herb
…YEAH,I’ve heard,but I still wetsand, so I can put a little more > elbow in to it w/o early burns.Meguars (sp?)makes the same stuff called > swirl remover(like a liquid 320)but costly.I just use Brasso it’s cheaper > and works great.Again ,I still prefer 320 wet/dry paper.I remember when > Surluster was first used by Les Pronier back in 1974 LongBeach,Ca.(if you > check the label you’ll find it’s mgf. in L.B.Ca.).I have moved on to a > Granitized product that costs more,but is like Dolphin skin.There are > located in SouthGate,Ca.next to Bell,Ca.My old inland homeytown,that I > still have to pick up the keys to the city(my great grandparents were the > owners/founders of Bell/Maywood).Herb Herb, you’re from Bell,I was raised in H.P.,What year did you graduate?I graduated in 1966 from H.P. Aloha, Kokua
I just did my first gloss. I think you are supposed to polish next,right. > I have an orange peel effect That I’m assuming i’m goint to have sand out. > Does anyone have any hints as to what happened.Using > polyester(1qt).,wax(10cc)Styrene(10cc)cat.(10cc). No fans or doors open. > Thought I had everything right. Temps were aroud 85 A quart is a lot of glossing resin for 1 side. Why are you adding more wax(S.A.),not necessary. I shot a gloss yesterday and I gave it a A-. 9’6" 20oz gloss resin, 2 to 3 oz. styrene, 25 cc catalyst. It’s been hot 88 degrees and humid 80 percent, so I waited until 5:30 in the afternoon to shoot it. I never add S.A. to my gloss, it already has enough.I bet it took awhile for your batch to kick.
Yo Herb have you ever heard of a rubbing compound call “Tiger > Cut”?I have some and it agressive as hell…will wipe out scratches > really fast…I follow up with Surluster.I can’t recall the company that > makes it but I got it at the local auto paint supplier…its kinda like > liquid 320.I think that the boat guys use it to buff out jell coats.By the > way…most of the pro polishers don’t use any water at all when sanding > but that is a whole page in itself. Has anyone tried “Finess It” or “Perfect It”? JC
A quart is a lot of glossing resin for 1 side. Why are you adding more > wax(S.A.),not necessary. I shot a gloss yesterday and I gave it a A-. > 9’6" 20oz gloss resin, 2 to 3 oz. styrene, 25 cc catalyst. It’s been > hot 88 degrees and humid 80 percent, so I waited until 5:30 in the > afternoon to shoot it. I never add S.A. to my gloss, it already has > enough.I bet it took awhile for your batch to kick. Hello Kokoa…question about styrene…is it realistic to expect an older can of gloss resin (1yr) that has been stored in a temp. around 78 degees all year to go bad. It seems that the gloss resin I have as described is not as easy to sand or polish as it was when it was new. I figured that the wax may have seperated or the styrene had evaporated (if that’s even possible) My gloss’s that I am using to repair dings are taking forever to kick (20 plus min.) I don’t dare use this stuff on a board until I figure out what’s up w/ this stuff. HERB YOU CAN WEIGH IN ON THIS IF YOU WISH OR CLAY OR JIM PHILLIPS OR JIM DUNLOP etc. etc. etc.
Hello Kokoa…question about styrene…is it realistic to > expect an older can of gloss resin (1yr) that has been stored in a temp. > around 78 degees all year to go bad. It seems that the gloss resin I have > as described is not as easy to sand or polish as it was when it was new. I > figured that the wax may have seperated or the styrene had evaporated (if > that’s even possible) My gloss’s that I am using to repair dings are > taking forever to kick (20 plus min.) I don’t dare use this stuff on a > board until I figure out what’s up w/ this stuff. HERB YOU CAN WEIGH IN ON > THIS IF YOU WISH OR CLAY OR JIM PHILLIPS OR JIM DUNLOP etc. etc. etc. Im no Jim or Herb but I just had the same problem.Acouple of gallons of Reichold Gloss resin that had gotten thick…the styrene had evaporated and the wax settled to the bottom…I drained it into a clean sheet rock type bucket and added around a pint of styrene alittle at a time until a had the right viscosity…I used a paint stirring paddle on an electric drill…you gotta mix it really good.
Herb, you’re from Bell,I was raised in H.P.,What year did you graduate?I > graduated in 1966 from H.P.>>> Aloha, Kokua …You are a bit older than me.I graduated from Bell in 1975,with surf film/photog Jeff Neu.I moved to my dad’s home town(he was from Maywood)in the late 60s from ImperialBeach,Ca.Talk about culture shock,GGGEEEEZZZZ.My older brother stayed in I.B.,AND THE REST OF THE FAMILY,mom,dad,littlebro,Ray moved to actually a strip of duplexes on the edge of Bell in H.P.(Randolph Place).Herb …I think you are using lam and just making a quicky batch of gloss?If this is the case you didn’t add enough.If you added to gloss you just wasted you S.A…Kokua got it right.Herb
Im no Jim or Herb but I just had the same problem.Acouple of gallons of > Reichold Gloss resin that had gotten thick…the styrene had evaporated > and the wax settled to the bottom…I drained it into a clean sheet rock > type bucket and added around a pint of styrene alittle at a time until a > had the right viscosity…I used a paint stirring paddle on an electric > drill…you gotta mix it really good. …depends on how bad/old it is.I don’t like to let gloss sit around too long,adding styrene helps,but sometimes it’s not the cure.Herb
i am doing a cheater gloss coat with silmar lam. resin. do i need to add styrene, or is there enough in the surfacing agent?
i am doing a cheater gloss coat with silmar lam. resin. do i need to add > styrene, or is there enough in the surfacing agent? …there’s none in lam.do you mean sanding resin?Herb
i am using lam. resin and mixing up a cheater gloss coat. i planned on adding surfacing agent, styrene, and catalyst. just not too sure on how much styrene to use. i keep hearing diff. ideas.
i am using lam. resin and mixing up a cheater gloss coat. i planned on > adding surfacing agent, styrene, and catalyst. just not too sure on how > much styrene to use. i keep hearing diff. ideas. This works for me…one cone strainer full of lam resin…35 cc of well mixed surfacing agent…no styrene.Catlylise according to your atmospheric conditions…I use around 14 ounces for a long board(about the same amount as a short Budweiser).To me “Cheat Gloss” is no different than a hot coat.
Has anyone tried “Finess It” or “Perfect It”? JC I have used it for final buffing…the “Tiger Cut” rubbing compound that I am talking about is real gritty it will actually cut the wax on a gloss coat.I used it to repolish an old cherry red 70’s lightning bolt like a mirror.I just found out that this is what the guys from the 60’s used before the advent of wet sanding.Gotta be carefull as it will burn thru the gloss in a heartbeat.
I think Teddy was asking if the amount of styrene in the surfacing agent is sufficient for “cheater gloss.” The surfacing agent contains some wax and styrene - adding extra styrene to your mix will thin it out - giving it a “self-leveling” property. An earlier post in this thread refers to the wax settling at the bottom - I’m thinking the wax will surface to the top? Maybe the thick stuff at the bottom is something else. In any case, I’ve always had best results with fresh resin. One year in the can is probably borderline as far as shelf life. A good argument for buying through a big distributor that moves product. I’ve also been able to get a fairly good buff out using the “cheater gloss” method even if it is just glorified hot coat resin. Wet and dry to 600 and buff - it’ll shine. I know that some people swear by “real” gloss resin and wet & dry to 1500 grit before buff out - definitely superior for show boards.