Due to a planer mishap and my utter inexperience, I overshaped a shortboard PU blank. it’s about 2 inches thick max on a 6’4" and I am 190-200,. Too thin for me. So I am considering glueing a sheet of home depot eps insulation foam to the bottom of the blank, reshaping and then try my hand at a compsand. Will this work or is it completely not worth it?
Never heard of roo glue, but I’ve had good experience with sanding gorilla glue, and I think it should work ok for this. The hd eps seems really soft how much glass will I need to go over fabric to keep it from looking like a golf ball? 6oz patch plus 4+6 enough? Thanks for your help
Hmmm I like where this is going. My worries are blending the eps into nose tail and rails. If I can’t get it to blend right to the rails how would the cheapo HD eps or maybe blue xps work for glue on rails? Also thinking of maybe a fabric inlay for cosmetic reasons since I’m not really set up with a vacuum for bagging on a skin . Thanks for the input!
blending shouldn’t be bad but the textures between PU and EPS are completely different
if you seal with spackle it won’t make a difference
XPS(blue dow) is closer in texture but then you have delam issues to considerd if you don’t leave it rough(60 grit)
use roo glue or something similar which you can cut through with fine sandpaper or dragonskin.
epoxy and PU Glue create too hard of a surface to sand between the foams.
Sumo Glue might work but Roo Glue is closer to elmers
i’d put it on the deck so you have PU to insert the boxes into versus the HD EPS.
then comp the deck skin with cork or 1/16 balsa between layers of glass through the tuck and leave the bottom just PU
deck should be plenty strong
if you dome the deck allot (like from 3 1/8") you might not even have to compsand skin it.
roo glue it
The biggest re-shaping problem is going to be where the thickness at the tail and nose tapers back down into the PU foam. Seal the eps side and glass with an opaque pigment (or paint the blank), then use a 6 oz deck patch and there’s no need to skin it.
Another option would be to use expanding poly foam (http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/boat-foam.htm ). Then you can just glass with poly. The downside of this stuff is all the gas holes in the foam after sanding which can add weight when filled. You can also use this stuff for gluing a sheet of eps foam on the board, but you need to weigh it down until the foam goes off.
Maybe you could just get some corecork and skin the board with cork. 2 layers on top and a layer on the bottom will add thickness and it also adds bouyancy. A lot easier than adding more foam and shaping again.
Gorilla glue quick cure
~Brian
Forget about it. Get another blank and start over. Chalk it up to experience.
I found that EPS and XPS at the glue line is hard to blend in. When you
get to a bead or two thick it breaks away and leaves a step with glue at
the bottom. Then you’re into epoxy and silica filler and trying to
blend that mess in.
If you don’t follow McDing’s advice (which is the sensible thing to do), and you’re like me…
I’ve just repaired an EPS blank stuffup with a XPS cutout. I used this hobby glue that is
promising to be the best I’ve found so far (and I’ve tried quite a few) Foam Fusion. It penetrates the foam, can be hotwired, sands well and is white/clear. I’ll do a post on it when I cut the bottom.
Just read the sellers info on Foam Fusion glue. Looks like it is meant for foam with porous surfaces. Seems like it could work for a PU-EPS bond. Not sure how well it will work for an EPS-XPS bond though. I definitely need to experiment with it though.
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Forget about it. Get another blank and start over. Chalk it up to experience.
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at some point an $85 - $110 blank is cheap...........
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[quote="$1"]
Forget about it. Get another blank and start over. Chalk it up to experience.
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at some point an $85 - $110 blank is cheap...........
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Exactly, quit trying to make a silk purse out of a sow ear....Macgyver
scratch it and start over…
Chalk it up to the learning process…
or, better yet, build a grom board and give it away.
A better question than; “Gluing EPS foam on PU blank?” would be “What’a wrong with my planer technique?” or “How can I improve my planer technique?”. I’d rather know more about the mishap and how it occurred. Not to embarass you on a public forum, but to help you avoid such a screw-up on the next one. Could be the planer you are using. The way you run it down the blank?? Something along those lines is what needs to be addressed. This forum can help you learn to do it the right way and avoid pitfalls. Advice gets imited when you’re already in the pit. We can’t always throw you a rope. Lowel
you are probably right… this is just a hobby for me and i was mearly looking for a project just for the project’s sake. I originally thought i would try my hand at putting on a wood skin/ rails, but I guess I would be better off starting over fresh.
I am painfully aware of how bad my planer technique is and no offence taken. This one was only board #4 and each board its getting a little better. This atually happened a while back when my 4 year old snuck up behind me, startled me and I put a big gouge right in the middle of the blank. once i faired it out I saw how thin the board was and just put it away. But now that all the wind is out of my sails, I’ll probably just glass it and give it to my boy as a birthday present.
Thank you all for your input.
In the future, I might be easier to just fix the gouge…
I’m sure someone with more experience will have a better idea but, here’s how I would do it…
Shape the board to finish/ready for glass leaving the gouge in.
Mix up some resin and microbaloons. really thick.
spackle in the gouge with that mix.
Glass like normal