glueing glass back to foam on break (epoxy)?

Hi all:

Fixing an epoxy SUP.  The board broke the glass on one side but not the other.  Started a thread, but can’t reply to it, but pictures are there:  (http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/fixing-break-stringerless-epoxy)

Actually getting around to fixing it today, but quick question.  JohnMellor said to leave the “good” side alone unless there is peeling back of the glass.  Did a thorough inspection, and there IS some peeling back of the glass on the “good” side, but it’s minimal.  Right around the crack, on only the nose side, the glass is peeled back maybe 1/2" or so.

If possible (and if smart), i’d like to leave the glass, if only because it keeps everything lined up perfectly.  Is it really dumb to just glue the foam back to the glass?  I am thinking gorilla glue, because it expands and I’d feel sure that it would press itself all the way back into the crack in case I missed a spot or something.  Only thing I’m worried about is it expanding maybe too much somehow and causing more damage.

So, I guess my two questions are:  Is it really dumb to just glue this little bit of glass back onto the foam, considering that this glass keeps things lined up and will ultimately look much better?  And two, is gorilla glue a good choice, or is there a better option?

Thanks!!

Hi jimmyjjello -

It’s me again.  I’d carefully ‘lift’ the loose glass and try to inject some mixed epoxy under it.  System Three Epoxy sells some nifty little syringes that work well for that sort of thing. You could probably just tilt the board, pull glass back and pour some in.

‘Pump’ the glass a bit to spread the epoxy, squirt some Gorilla Glue where the two halves meet, carefully align the two halves and put some weights on the loose glass to tack it down.  If you have some peel ply, wax paper, or plastic sheet, place that over everything before the weights.  Bricks, buckets of water and thin plywood or whatever to help spread the weight evenly should do the trick.  Gorilla Glue will just foam out the seam as it expands.

So… basically tack the loose glass down and stick board together in one step.  Really check the ‘good’ side for additional cracks.  It might not be a bad idea to glass a belt of fiberglass on that side too if in doubt.  Wrap the belt on both sides around the rails.  Try to preserve as much of original graphics as possible.

Yo yo Jimmyjello-

Don’t forget the ways of foaming polyurethane Gorilla Glue- if you are a habitual ‘overdoer’ use less than you think you need as it expands (!) and dampen the foam a little bit first as it needs moisture for the magic to happen. 

Hi John-

Thanks for the detailed write-ups, solid info!

 

 

Chinese junk.

Fake stringer. (Airbrushed).

Sorry to be Debbie Downer.

Just pointing out that there is no replacement for stringer’s.

No even the prettiest graphics make Chinese boards worth more than the cheap resin and fiberglass they are built with.

Sorry, dowels will make the break stronger.

Apply them inside while squirting in expanding foam or epoxy resin.

Good liuck.