the reason why I put the block on after glassing you have a hard surface to sand and shape the block against. If not you might sand into the foam when final shape of the tailblock, glassing prevents this
get the block almost shaped, glass the board then cut the tail off enough to put on the tail block. Put the block on with a hot glue gun. finish shaping the block, then glass over it .
I personally like to put them on after the lamination, but before the hot coat. Clamp on a straight edge and rout off the tail...lam resin on the block, shape with belt sander, finish sand, then glass over the whole mess and blend in the lap. Hot coat, sand out, polish.. pretty.
I put my tail blocks on before any glassing...I use hot a hot glue gun to get it on there. I feel its easier than cutting through the lam, and reglassing, but that just because I suck at glassing.
I glue them on pre-glass, too, after the rough out. I’ll pre-shape the block, glue it on, then finish shape down to the block. Glass over the whole thing. Some hot lam resin or 5 min. epoxy does the trick for me.
With balsa I will usually lay out the board sans tailblock. Shape the board leaving the tail tip square and then add the tailblock. I don’t like to cut off any balsa usually because it’s so expensive.
I shape the blank and just before the last screen pass I cut the tail straight with a Japanees Pull Saw. Tape the edge with 3/4" Masking tape along the edge then 2" Masking tape to follow. Carefull not to over shape the foam that your block is attached to. I use my hand planes to rough my block in close then 40 grit - 60 grit - 100 grit. Wipe it clean with acetone.
Now you can pull the tape. Make your last screening pass and be gentle near the tail block. One soft pass only.
Tail Blocks are hard to shape from harder woods. If you desire to use exotics they are hard so cut your block close to size as possible. When making my tail blocks I always use the softer woods to the tail end where the most shaping is needed.
Basswood (light); Perota (Rich Brown color) Basswood is easy to carve and perota is soft and easy to blend.
I keep the harder woods closer to the board where less shaping is required. Purple Hearth takes patience and can splinter so I use it on flats and keep it off the ends. Magony, Koa, Lacewood, Cedar, Redwood all look good. It's really endless.
Mix up your pieces and make it interesting. Softer woods to the outside!