the jc glassing video is very imformative. def. worth watching. but i have one question. what is a good mixture per qt. for the hot coat? i figure 1/2qt. w/ 15cc’s of catalyst maybe less…but how much styrene to add per qt?
Teddy: Are you usining lam resin and mixing your own hotcoat mix? If so don’t get the stryrene (a polyester resin thinner) mixed up with the wax solution (which also is composed of styrene and wax). 32oz. resin=960 ml.+ 20 ml. of wax solution. 2% by volume works for me. The product I use is labelled T-100, you are looking for a “surfacing agent”. The suspended wax rises to the surface of the resin mix and gives you a sandable surface. One tip, if you use UV catalyst, give the wax time to rise to the surface (3-5 min.) BEFORE you expose the resin to UV. TS>>> the jc glassing video is very imformative. def. worth watching. but i have > one question. what is a good mixture per qt. for the hot coat? i figure > 1/2qt. w/ 15cc’s of catalyst maybe less…but how much styrene to add > per qt?
do they sell hot coat resin pre-mixed with the surfacing agent? or must you always mix lam. resin with the surfacing agent. what is more cos effective? sorry for all the posts, i am just getting started and this is the best place for info.
Most all suppliers sell Silmar resin in a lam or sanding resin config. Lots easier to mix your own from a single resin stock. Probably more economical in the long run too. TS>>> do they sell hot coat resin pre-mixed with the surfacing agent? or must > you always mix lam. resin with the surfacing agent. what is more cos > effective? sorry for all the posts, i am just getting started and this is > the best place for info.
All the hotcoat premix I ever got seemed to go bad quicker. You will also get a better/more consistent ratio of resin to wax solution when you mix it yourself. Don’t use too much hotcoat. You don’t need it and it adds weight. From 6’ to 6’8" I use between 130 to 175 ml of resin, per side.
Teddy:>>> Are you usining lam resin and mixing your own hotcoat mix? If so don’t get > the stryrene (a polyester resin thinner) mixed up with the wax solution > (which also is composed of styrene and wax). 32oz. resin=960 ml.+ 20 ml. > of wax solution. 2% by volume works for me. The product I use is labelled > T-100, you are looking for a “surfacing agent”. The suspended > wax rises to the surface of the resin mix and gives you a sandable > surface. One tip, if you use UV catalyst, give the wax time to rise to the > surface (3-5 min.) BEFORE you expose the resin to UV.>>> TS I use UV resin for hot coats. I mix it and catalyze it the same as non UV, let it kick normally, but after about 10 minutes put the board out in the sun and it gets hard real fast without affecting the wax. The best of both worlds
kokua does what I do. Mix it hot, let it kick, then put it in the sun. Just mix up 1/2 of sanding resin for each side. I put like 30cc’s of catalyst for each side. I mix it hot so it will set fast then walk it out in the sun. Working fast gets things done faster.
Doesn’t that technique make the board yellow quicker as it ages, and/or make the resin layer more brittle? Or does that the fact that it is setting up so quick that the higher temps don’t have negative effects.
kokua does what I do. Mix it hot, let it kick, then put it in the sun. > Just mix up 1/2 of sanding resin for each side. I put like 30cc’s of > catalyst for each side. I mix it hot so it will set fast then walk it out > in the sun. Working fast gets things done faster. Hey, everyone has the same ideas. If someone good uses something, that means it works. I mix it even hotter, and just toss in whatever I have laying around, in fact, the more of that catalyst stuff the better. Working fast gets things done faster. Remember, a good glasser will make anything work. Learn how to use it. Laminate and be merry.
If you get the pre-mix, shake it up good each time you pour. The wax surfaces in the can and you’ll pour it off leaving any remaining resin without much wax. That might explain why it went bad early. Same with pre-mix gloss.
ok…i am getting a little confused here…not enough general info… what is a good mix for let’s say a qt…not for any sun-cure type qt. of lam. resin + surfacing agent? + catalyst? for a beginning glasser,so it doesn’t gel too fast
How big of a board are you doing? A Qt. is way too much for a short board. And where are you at? The temp. & humidity plays a huge role in how much catalyst to use. Someone in your area can you give you more specific numbers. When you get the hoat coat right, you will be able to see it when it is flowing over the tape line. In my limited experience it is best when it comes off the tape line in sheet like sections (instead of linear type drips). Take notes as to the temp.-catalyst used-wax solution for future use. You will figure out the right mix and what it will sand like. I would stay away from pre mixed hot coat. Your ratios will be more consistent if you do it yourself. Good Luck.
1 litre resin with 3percent of wax solution and usually 4 percent of Mekp but depend of size of board and air temperature…I use silmar resin but some type resin use diffrent percent of catalyst depend of factory note… if is your first board hot glossing is ok 2 percent of cat sorry my english but isnt my language