Good paddler for soft take off OH to 2x

Hey Guys,

I have a USB 6-10A in the garage.  I want to make a board for a break I surfed recently.  Its in a hard to get to place and only breaks with some decent size.  I rode a 7-6 x 21 squash with a fairly wide nose.   The paddle out was not easy but doable without duck diving.  The wave comes in soft, but once you are on it, it gets more critical, steep and fast.  Still a crumbler though.  I would like to make a board in the 6-8 range that will paddle well but will help me to go a bit more vertical on the face.  I am a competent intermediate surfer at best.  165#, 5’ 10, 52 years old in very good shape.  I liked the look of some of Ricky Carroll’s boards with pin tails and rounded noses.  Post some pics if you have a shape that you think would work!  Thank you.


See the above link.  I’ve made three of these…one on the 6’10A blank.  Mild concave to a V in the tail with quad fin set up.  Good paddler.  A little squirrley if the drop is top to bottom.  Pic of board at second link.



Pin tail / rounded nose?    Which of his models are looking at - one of the mini-longboard type shapes?  Which of his models does your current board most closely resemble?  

The 6-10A has a relatively low tail rocker that may cut into “going vertical” when compared to the taller and curvier rockers.  

Thank you Mako.  That is a nice looking board.  The shape I was considering was similar to the Ricky Carroll Mini pin.  That shape looked like it would be a real wave catcher but once you got back on the tail that you would be able to turn it pretty well.  I just lack the experience to know what the shape will do best.  As for going vertical, that may be an overstatement.  Currently I go pretty straight on the face on a big wave. The next step would be to at least get up to the top and back down with a bit more drive in the bottom turn.


I like Mako’s board better for your criteria.  Kinda hard to tell on this computer, 'cause it distorts a bit, but I say lose the wide nose if you want to pull shortboard performance turns on bigger waves.  Just my opinion.

Here’s a 7-6 I made awhile back - I’ve never had it in DOH but I’m sure it would work well for me in head high conditions as you described.

Of the boards on that Rickey Carrol link the 7’2 Hybrid is the one I would choose to copy for the conditions described.   For your age, fitness and size I would go 6’8 or you could max out the blank.  The biggest obstical you face with the 6’10A is the lack of rocker…its a very flat blank.  I would squeeze as much rocker as possible out of it.  The retro glide on that link is very similar to the red board I linked the picture to above.

Thanks guys, Huck I like your board as well.  Seemed like you have a nice hip in the tail for better turning.  Mako, thanks for the straight up recommendation.  Time to get busy!  I appreciate the advice.

Here is what I came up with.  Went 6’8 rounded pin just because I like rounded pins.  My local is pitchy and thought I might be able to ride this board there as well.  Thanks for all the input on my other posts regarding the tint. First go with a resin tint and am pretty pleased with the results.  Had one surf on it so far in clean OH conditions and it was very fun.  But anything would have been fun on that day!