Gorilla Glue + Water?

Hey guys. Great resource here! I am an amateur ding repairer for years but I need to step up to fix a snapped tail. I have searched and read about using Gorilla Glue in the initial re-attachment phase but am wondering about the Gorilla Glue instructions, mainly the part about wetting one side. I have let my Poly board dry for about a month now and find it hard to imagine that it would be good to wet one side of the foam now but it seems that the glue might not set if I don’t use some water? I kind of go with when in doubt leave it out - so I am leaning towards not using the glue and going with the resin goo instead. Anybody have any input in using Gorilla Glue? Thanks.

PS: I have a fish with one swallow point snapped from bottom to top (cleanly, all the way through the foam from the inside of the center V swallow opening straight across the board to the rail) with a small break on the inside of the top glass - but the majority of the top glass is still in place and looks good (so the broken tail is kind of on a strong top hinge, 6 glass x2). I was thinking that instead of cutting through the top glass to remove the broken tail completely, I would just reconnect it with the glue first then goo, qcell, then wrap around glass (with plenty of sanding in between).

Thanks again!

GlassSlider,

You only need to mist the surface of the foam so don’t worry about the foam getting ruined. Run to the store buy a .99 mist bottle and a jug of distilled water. Spritz both pieces of foam lightly and smear GG on one piece. Tape the two pieces together tightly with masking tape and let is sit for 4 or 5 hours. You have the rest down.

P.S. Elmers Glue makes a polyurethane foam that is the equivelent to G.G. and costs several dollars less. You can pick it up at Home Depot.

Have Fun!

http://www.gorillaglue.com/pdfs/technicalDataWood.pdf

http://www.gorillaglue.com/faqs.htm

. We use a mister to slow the curing down a little. Here are some GG facts.

Thanks guys. I will go with the Gorilla and the Mist technique.

for this kind of repair

why wouldn’t you use 5 min epoxy?

just like putting on a nose or tail block…

If you keep it clean with tape you shouldn’t have too much of a sanding problem.

Another fact about Gorilla Glue or any other polyurethane glue: The expansion when the glue starts to set up will create some pressure. Be sure the parts you are glueing are held in place firmly, or you could get some movement, which will distort your desired finished product. Doug

Aloha Slider,

I agree with all the answers so far, as all will do the job. Personally, I wouldn’t go with the gorilla or Elmer’s cheaper vesrsion for this job because this type of glue expands when curing, is messy requiring more cleanup, takes a long time to cure, and although the tape will “hold”, this type of glue prefers clamping pressure, which you can’t really achieve with this type of repair (a long bar clamp to the nose isn’t ideal). I would go with Oneula’s epoxy. I’ve used 60 sec. epoxy for such, which is strong, very fast, and little effort involved…just hold in place for a minute and you’re done.

I use gorilla types often, but not for this kind of job. I don’t bother misting, just wipe with damp rag, wait a minute to absorb into the wood cells, then glue. I use the yellow (Titebond type) glues 99% of the time, but the old fashion Elmer’s white glue won’t leave the tan glue line on white foam as will the yellow glues. Enjoy the ride!

Richard

You guys are the best man. I love learning something new. Any particular epoxy to get - or to stay away from?

Any home center or hardware store has epoxy in the glue section. Get the package with the little plastic gun that holds the two-part (glue and hardener). You just squeeze a tad out on a scrap board or paper, stir mix it, then spread it on. You’ll need to be ready to go if you use the 60 sec. stuff, or take your time with the 5 minute, but be prepared to hold it or tape it for a while.

richard

5 Min epoxy worked really well. Thanks again for the help.

5 Min epoxy worked really well. Thanks again for the help.

Yeah, its the ‘duct tape’ for board builders. So many handy uses.

just an update for those who haven’t tried this koolaid yet…

but I’m falling more in love with Roo-Glue and more out of love of the brown palms of Gorilla or Elmers PU.

CMP turned me on to the stuff even gave me a bottle to try…

He uses it now to glue up his EPS blanks even tried coloring it so hie could color code the different densities of his blanks for reference later. He said the manufacturer said it’s so safe you can eat it but I wouldn’t try that quite yet…

Bottom line

doesn’t require water

doesn’t expand uncontrollably like PU

sands like a dream

cleans up with warm water

and bets of all…

it’s doesn’t stain skin…

always been a little embarrasisng showing up at some million dollar business for a sales presentation with brown stains all over your hands.

And yes I do use gloves, but you know how it goes…

you almost expect that sarcastic local humoristic shout from the back of the room declaring…

“eh boy, next time you go batroom use da paper instead of your hand…”

Yup my uncles and friends would’ve been all over me with that put down…

Anyway just another option for some occasions insted of PU glue for clamped glueups…