i’d like an idea of how jerky or cleanly a dremel is going to handle to perform this task. i’ve never used one before. i plan to guy buy the 300 series at lunch. the 300 series has a 5,000 rpm setting.
i thought i was in the clear re: resin in the boxes but i ground 'em yesterday to check and i was half in the clear. two boxes clean, two have just enough resin in there so i can’t get the fins in. i would “massage” the fins for the board but i really don’t want to have to tell my buddy i effed up his board again… that was another fun one. never cut a swallowtail before. board was supposed to be a five fin convertible but because i cut the swallow too deep, it’s now a quad. the other two swallows came out relatively clean.
If the amount of resin is not too much, consider just using a small flathead or knife to chip the resin off. My other favorite tool is an ice cream stick with sandpaper wrapped around. Good Luck!
How much resin are you talking about? When I glass over FCS plugs or FU fin boxes, a little resin gets around the lip. I just take a sharp knife with a blade that fits in the slot and trim it or pry it off the box edge. The resin doesn't stick that well to the plastic, so it usually comes right off. I have used a dremel with an 1/8" bit and that works too, just take it slow. Still, I'd recommend a blade.
If you have resin in the bottom of the box, you can usually take a scratch awl and pop it out with that.
i like the scratch awl idea. the resin is in the bottom corner of the boxes, right where the rear of the fin is supposed to sit. it’s really hard to get at. i cut out the rest of the resin w/ a razor.
A very thin razor sharp wood chisel can be the best tool of all for this kind of unfortunate run-off in fin boxes. Just go real slow and take the material out in small layers.
"A very thin razor sharp wood chisel can be the best tool of all for this kind of unfortunate run-off in fin boxes. Just go real slow and take the material out in small layers."
Hi Rich - That's how I do it if I leak resin in to a plug or box slot. I ground the sides of a narrow wood chisel until it fit and it often pops the resin drips right out. Another trick is to take a Q-Tip and apply a small amount of vaseline to the insides of the box before installing. It makes any goobers easier to remove. When I do a glass cap over a box I don't tape off anymore. A light application of resin right around the slot, fill coat, feather sand and gloss. I cut away the cap over the slot as a last step and file away a 45 degree angle along the opening so the fin doesn't snag the glass when being removed.
i'd like an idea of how jerky or cleanly a dremel is going to handle to perform this task. i've never used one before. i plan to guy buy the 300 series at lunch. the 300 series has a 5,000 rpm setting.
i thought i was in the clear re: resin in the boxes but i ground 'em yesterday to check and i was half in the clear. two boxes clean, two have just enough resin in there so i can't get the fins in. i would "massage" the fins for the board but i really don't want to have to tell my buddy i effed up his board again... that was another fun one. never cut a swallowtail before. board was supposed to be a five fin convertible but because i cut the swallow too deep, it's now a quad. the other two swallows came out relatively clean.
cheers,
tommy
Reply by ProBox-Larry
Hi Tommy, Chipping away may be OK, but the wall of the Future box at that point is extremely thin and you can create a hair line crack that later takes water and well you know what happens then. If the epoxy is at the rear of the box, sand the fin at the base that will have contact with that area of epoxy. This I think is safer. Just make sure to sand and check the fin fit, because the rear of a Future fin fits by pressure pushed by the front screw against the back with the notch keeping the fin in the Box. So has long as the notch at the rear is clear, then sanding alittle at the bottom or side won't effect the pressure fit.
Tommy, lots of good ideas here. Use your best judgement. If it’s thin, you can probably chip or shave it out gently. If it’s thick, then you’re on the right track with a dremel. Use a soft touch with a firm grip. Go slow, with purpose. Even a gouge into the box can be fixed.
Get one of those cans of air that computer dweebozoids use to dust the keyboard with. Turn it upside downand spray into the future boxes. That cold epoxy should pop right out. I have cast epoxy fin bases into abs plastic, and although I use pva mold release, it seems like the best way to get the pieces apart is to throw them in the freezer for a short while. The expansion co-efs of the two plastics play a big part in this working. Good luck!