I reckon I’d go in with mates but some of the guys out there get pretty intense… I actually stopped surfing for a couple of years in the 90’s because of it…
yeah… the waves are killer…
pitty I live so far away now (2000km, but only 130km from bells beach… so :))
Nels makes a VERY interesting point. Also, are there any lessor quality breaks in the general area that are “under utilized”? I’d much more likely be at one of those.
Is it the only point in the area, for instance in NJ there are only a few points over hundreds of miles of coast, and those points hold swell differently so if that were the case maybe. but austrailia, ten miles away a not as crowded point maybe not as perfect but pretty darn good.
Its not the only point in the area. It is the best tho. The others might not have been handling the swell size and direction very well.
Cabarita would have been pretty big. A guy broke his leg jumping off the rocks at currumbin, right in front of a news crew. Mis timed it and got washed back over the rocks.
Byron would have been pumping at the pass and lennox.
I went to angourie on saturday and it was pretty good but a bit inconsistent.
The main reason it was so crowded was that there was no sweep. usually you have to paddle at probably 80% just to stay in the same spot. this cuts out the weekend warriors from the rest. the guys who are paddle fit get most of the waves.
no sweep means everyone could sit at the top of the point.
Where does “soul” fit, in this type of surfing expereince? It’s a term which seems to be used liberally when discussing different technologies etc. To me it would depend on the mood of the crowd. I have surfed in crowds that have been pretty mellow and enjoyed myself and felt it was “soulful” in ways. however when at th enumbers in the photo, I think there is always going to be a level of unhealthy agression in the water, any thoughts?
At the break I go to most often these days there is a group of about 10 guys that all know each other - we greet eachother - whoop and holler when one gets a great ride help eachother out if a board goes loose and give waves to the guys who are missing out/not as fit/old.
Now 10 is not a crowd… but there can sometimes be 20 odd in the water and its a small take off area (5m or so) when the waves are good but the attitude of the group invites the other “non locals” into a good mood and they respect us more - if we call a wave they will pull off it and we give them good waves back - “Take this mate, youre in the spot!! GO!!” Its a great vibe.
There has been a couple of times when someone comes along or a small group of two or thee snake people or drop in on the old guys (one who is 78yrs) and they get put in their place VERY quickly but others in the group. More often than not they will leave after a short time.