Which longtime Swaylock’s contibutor is quoted on page 144 of the book Deep Survival…???..
Herb?
Not Herb, but close…
nobody is close to Herb, he’s one of a kind.
LeeDD ?
My guess too.
Hi Paul,
That would be our own world famous patron of poets…Ambrose!
I had read that book trying to figure out a survival technique for someone suddenly landlocked after 42 years of surfing. Imagine my relief to find a Swaylockian pop up in my reading.
My lastest “life ring” was an old tag by Wildy… which more or less said " I am away from the ocean and OK with it"
Surfing Nashville, Gil
I moved from the Jersey Shore to Ann Arbor, Michigan in 1991 and didn’t surf for four years, except once a year over Christmas vacation. I took up mountain biking for as a substitue. Found that I could get a similar feeling by “drawing lines” through the wooded slopes and trails.
That’s kinda what you do… Look for some kind of substitue.
The only problem was during the harsh, frozen, Michigan winters, when it was simply impossible to ride, and you really started to doubt your own identity. I’d sit there sometimes and stare at my board, propped up in the corner of my room, and thing…“Who am I?.. I’m not a surfer.”
Weird. I’m glad I’m back.