Gun dimensions / ideas / help please

General Discussion
1

Since 2014, I’ve spent every autumn in Ireland, usually staying 1–2 months for the waves, the land, and the people. Over the past few years I’ve tried stepping up to surf bigger waves here—with mixed results.

My largest board to date is a 6’2" Tomo Hydronaut step-up (34L); my regular shortboards are around 30.5L. I’m 43, 80kg, landlocked most of the year, and have 25 years in the water (Indo, West OZ, Samoa, South Africa, etc). I’m relatively athletic/fit and would call my abilities “solidly average”—I’m no pro, but not a beginner. For shortboarding, the Slater Designs FRK models (Frk, Frk Plus, Frk Swallow) have been my magic carpet after a lot of experimenting and talks with Dan Mann.

But—bigger Irish waves are a totally different story. When I tried paddling out at huge Lissadell on a day Mullaghmore was showing 24ft on the charts, I went over the falls on every set and couldn’t paddle fast enough to chip into anything. Clearly, my current step-up doesn’t cut it for true west coast juice.

I’m researching what board would let me break into surfing big Irish waves—mainly 2–4x overhead, with the goal of catching waves early and making it out the back. Not looking to charge maxing Mully, but if my mates invite me out when it’s just starting to break, I’d love to give it a nudge.

What’s the right approach here length/volume/outline-wise for an 80kg, reasonably fit, experienced but realistic surfer looking to get comfortable on bigger Irish juice?

  • How much length and volume would you recommend to paddle in super early at beachies and reefs?
  • Outline and rocker tips for a board built for Irish winter power, but not a full-on big wave gun?
  • Thoughts on transitioning from performance shortboards (FRK etc) to bigger boards for these kinds of waves?

Open to all suggestions—keen to hear what’s worked (or not!) for anyone who’s made this leap, or shaped boards for similar conditions.

Cheers and thanks for the input!

2

Well you ain’t getting nowhere with a 6’2 “step up. I don’t calculate volume, so you lost me there. But you better “step up” to at least a 7’2. For 3 or 4 times overhead I’d go even bigger.

3

For 3 to 4x overhead waves you need a real solid gun.

4

So I havent surfed Ireland but i have surfed madiera (jardim do mar) I recon the biggest i surfed that was 3-4 meters at 17 or 19 seconds which was probably around 4x oh. I was on an 8’6 gun from a local shaper.

That was about as big as i think i really want to surf unless there are safeties with jet skis to save my ass.

I’m 188cm and 80kgs ±. I really like my 7’2 paddilac i had custom made its 7’2 x 20.25 x 20.62 and around 39.6liters. I can properly duck dive this board and I think i would use it up 2.5-3 meters at 17-19 seconds. Anything over that i’d be stepping up to an 8ft plus gun and duck diving at that point is probably out.

The paddilacs are really sweet boards, highly recommend but if your looking to duck dive it i might go custom and put it on a bit a of a diet. The one thing about doing that is it makes the paddle position and take off a little less forgiving.

2 Likes
5

Id also check out the rusty blackbirds, those boards look pretty sweet and people love them.

If your surfing waves like this you need a good leash.

I would highly recommend the creatures of liesure outter reef leash at 10ft. That will give you some distance to swim under the waves and i’ve not had one fail on me.

6

As wave size increases, wave shoreward ‘speed’ increases.
First requirement is a board that paddles fast, to achieve critical take-off velocity.

7

A real gun around 9’ is what you need for big powerfull waves. I make some for local big surf, hollow beachbreack and flatter massive reefbreak. For hollow beachbreack boards have a curvier rocker, and are more refined at the end.

8

At the moment the only boards that would be readily available are: Hurricane OUTER REEF SERIES in either:

  • 7’0 x 19 5/8 × 2 7/8 - 43L
  • 8’0 × 20 5/8 x 3 1/4 -55.7L
  • 8’6 × 20 3/4 × 3 3/8 62.2L

Yeah I‘ll get a 10 ft big wave leash with quick release.

9

not sure what your timeframe is but when i was in madiera the european pyzel factory made me a paddilac and shipped it to me. Shipping was suprisingly cheap. I’d try contacting them. You also have pukas and i imagine some other options.

10

Yeah the problem is that I´m already on my way up there and from all my research this will be the only three boards available at the moment.
I find they pack a lot of volume for the size compared to other guns in that range. What do you guys think about that. Means duck diving even a 7´0 board will be borderline. But yeah that’s the way of surfing guns, I´m well aware. Further I´m not sure if the 8´6 will be to much of a board and would be more suited for maxing Mullaghmore. The wave there are often pretty steep and hollow, with lots of power and very fast walls.

From my feeling I´d rather have a board with a shorter overall length, heaps of volume under my chest, a little more rocker and sharp rails. BUT with enough volume to get into the waves early enough.

11

Just watched a video of Nathan Florence surfing it when it was fucking huge. He had an impact vest and and inflation vest, looked like he was on a 9 ish foot Puerto paddilac. Depending on how long your going to be there I’d contact the pyzel factory in Portugal.