So you guys (and gals) know the feeling you get right before you hang ten. Like on a decent chest high wave. Goin frontside, you see yourself moving up the face, right behind the pocket. Keeping control of the gas peddle, and your log makes a loud ((dounk)) sound… But at the same time everything goes silent…?
Its that moment when your board locks in, becomes one with the curl. By then you’re already on the nose and within a split second; standing parallel. Toes over, flying! exactly where you are supposed to be. Perfectly lined up with what this universe has for you. It takes originality to accomplish such an athletic maneuver.
Comparable to only a few other things which could remain unspoken; but for the fun, i.e. Skydiving, Sex, Pulling into big barrels…
Sometimes it seems like a long lost art. I shall continue anyways, because I have something that many people dont. & I know there are some of you that know exactly what I am talking about. You are the ones that I am talking to. So until the next “ten” , I will share my passion.
Any good noserides lately?
Sadly it’s been over a month now…
It is a unique feeling being perched at the front of 9’6" of board. We dont often get long walled waves suitable for long nose rides at my local beaches. It is normally a quick 5 or 10 then step back and cutback. But yesterday I got a few. I have been trying to work on my 5’s and 10’s of late. It seems the more you try the less you get. So yesterday I went out and surfed with out thinking about nose riding to much. Let the wave dictate when to go for the nose. Sure enough, I found my self with 10 over on my third wave. With enough time to settle and enjoy the ride. platty.
I’d be getting more this year except for Clark pulling the plug. I had only only 1 more element to change in the 9’9W(rails) blank before I had the perfect noserider for my waves.
had a really good (totally freak) sesh about 3 weeks ago. everywhere else was flat, and this little swell started coming in at my beach…and ONLY my beach. me and two friends were the only ones out. it was about rib-high, and crankin’ really hard…practically shorepound, throwin’ out pretty hollow. early entry on the longboard, and the rails just really gripped into the wave. sometimes got shacked, sometime rocked out on the tip…sometimes both. got some great tubes, and some really solid noserides. if only every day could be like that.
i have been exiled to the inland empire since october 16th. on the board my dad made back in 66 works ok until you get both toes on the nose then the wierd rocker justlifts the tail out, it’s a real good board to practice on, if you can nose ride that you can noseride anything (my friend can hang five on his 5’ 10" MTF)
Yeah those are the good days. I broke my single fin at blacks about two weeks ago. It was soo epic out there; on a weekday… So there was this right on the inside of the south peak. My 3 friends and I were the only ones on this peak. It was about chest high, sunny, glassy and blue. These peelers were spinning all the way to the sand. Reeling!! You could get little barrels or hang ten in the pocket for many seconds. UNbelievable shape. This was such a memorable session.
Occasionally some rogue waves would come through. Towards the end of our 4 hour long sesh there were some waaay over head bombs that came through. Like 5 sets, 3 waves each. Swingin soo wide. We’re like “ok well we’ll try to catch som lefts then”. No one else was on them. So we did. More waves than we could handle. (mostly turns on these waves though.) Then this HUGE set came through, each wave bigger than the last. Soo clean though. I couldnt catch 'em, but I tryed to conquer them anyways. So i didnt lose my board, and I made it to the outer lineup. But I buckled my board in the process. (just tryin to go over them. & this is my single fin log.) (( dont be fooled, some can turn these things juuust fine.))
Duuude, Those spinning chest high rights on the inside were incredible though! I guess I buckled it on the best day I have had in a while. Blacks… ahh yeaaaa.
Well, we were stuffed and made our way back to our cars.
Those 60’s boards are gnarly. You wouldn’t believe what im riding now that my board is broken. Its a con pig from the early 60’s. HUGE fin! This thing is just a plank. If you can noseride this, you can noseride anything…
ON this board, “whats a bottom turn?”
yea also have a 1965 hobie pig, 16 inch wide nose 4 inches thick, giant fin, no wonder the best surfs of the day back then were big guys like noll, you need the size to turn these things. however the Hobie can nose ride for no real explain able reason, rocker is like 3 3/4 infront and maybe 4 in the tail giant d fin, huge thick 50/50 rails far back wide point, maybe because of the float and the fact that when i rode it i weighed 110 and it wouldn’t sink, yes i am/was a twig. I am thinking of possibly trying it as a SUP.
I only ever surf my real logs if it is under head high with hot little sections, so every session im getting some solid perch time… some sessions more than others.
Theres nothing better than knowing your using the best possible equipment for that particular session…so there is little excuse for blaming the equipment 
Logging can be great
i love taking off deeper then the shortboarders, fade left on a right, take two or three tiny quick steps to the snout, lay my arms to my side, and crusin past them. i also love kamakazi stylin hollow racey sections on the nose and either getting stuck in the hollowness or making it, sometimes going too fast afterwords to really cross step back, just siked im still standing. that happened a lot this winter, on waves much bigger then proper snout riding waves.
i really love those moments.
Noseriding is such a buzz…
I like the feeling that you’re riding a finless little disk…when that concave under the nose is pushing you up and your shifting you bent knees to keep in perfect nosetrim…
Ah yea… it’s been too long! Around here it’s beachbreaks, so you don’t get long ones… but you gotta get 'em when you can…
yea, iknow the 50/50 rails hold it in but, other thinner logs with 50/50 rails are much easier to turn, same with lighter boards.
