photo: not a surfboard.
A surfboard is; hand made one of a kind
work of one who has ,is and will have to
surf to access a familiar peace.
The 21st century is a brand new papadime
[dont correct the spelling as papa is a refrence to the hawaiian word]
{genius no, freudian slip yes automatic spirit writing ,yes}
PaPa - flat He’e-octopus Nalu- wave
A proud man standing with a board taller than himself
after riding to shore with a hand made implement
a nineteenth century Icon, food for a disenfranchised
twentieth century youth reactionaries in the richest
culture in the history of the earth.
Now that surfing is a comodity
traded on the stock exchange
stolen in broad daylight by forces
of avarice and marketing .
The time is at hand to declare
a separation.
surfing is not done with a remote or a keyboard.
surfing is not done on a ski slope , on a lake ,
or on cable t.v.like in the 60’s a haircut style
and a bottle o’bleach dint make you real.
surfing is done in the natural ocean
with no payoff greater than a gravity drop
un- witnessed {empty beach}.
the photo is evidence
of what a surfboard is not.
Humility aside
the distinction must be made
the Greatest surfer is not but
a molecule dropping through
the weightless spin of personal best
awaiting only the chance to do it again.
Do You Still SURF?
perhaps your go-Pro
channel Island
corperate shorts
reveal the fact
that you don’t actually surf
though you devote yourself
to The new paradime
travail sounds like travel
to remote spots to rub shoulders
with russian oligarchs living the goodlife
on the decks of yachts as 'surfers.
…ambrose…
I remember watching carefully every turn executed
while sitting on the beach hoping to get a clue to the mystery
of surfing well,saving every spare dime to buy a good board.
p.s.why dont moderators correct the spelling of velzy’s name?
or dont they know it is spelled Valkyrie.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valkyrie