As some of you might remember ftom a previous post Im using surfcel resin from teccel.
The resin is pretty slow although im trying to work my way around that, its great for laminating as its really thin, hotcoats its a little bit too thin so I have been leaving it a few mins catslysed before applying which is helping to avoid glooping.
Anyway thats the background, and all those things are workable. The thing is that my boatds have not got that bright white look, they are not yellow but they are not the same as when i was using silmar before i relocated. silmar here is 15dollars per kg do not an option.
I mentioned it to a friend of mine that is a chemist and he said that the silmar resin probably just used a dye to get the blue\purple color which gives it that whiter than white look.
So has anyone tried adding a tiny bit of blue tint to the resin to achieve this whiter result? Im just worried of it showing up in the football patches for the fcs, and it being noticeable on the freelaps. Never had issues of noticable lsps when using silmar so would it be noticableif i self coloured the resin?
If you go that route, tint the entire quanity you have at the same time. If you buy by the pail, drum etc. Otherwise you will get tons of variances in your laps by mixing different baches as you will most likely never get it dead on each time.
If you are not doing cut laps, stay away from tinting resin to make a “whiter” board. You will not get what you are after. If you have foam that yellows, all you need to do is tape off the stringer and do a acrylic white spray over the entire board. It takes a bit longer, but the results are worth it. Your boards will stay white longer. I speak from experience. When Clark went out of business here on the Left Coast we got lots of foam that yellowed the minute you cut into it so as a small time shaper, I had to do something. Also, I do my own label for some surf shops and I always spray all these boards as they are on consignment and sometimes sit for a few months before being sold. They sit next to some of the big names in the rack that are slowly changing color and they are then more apealing to the buyer as they appear whiter. (Even though they cost less, its how the boards look in the rack that most times makes the sale) Just my 2c…
Wont a tiny bit of white pigment make the logos very slightly milky?
I dont have issues with the foam yellowing, its just the resin is not giving the crisp look that im used to getting when i was using the silmar.
At one stage when i was in the uk some shops were producing boards that were almost pink or purple in color. It gave an almost luminescent white. I know many will say bright whiteness is not important but when they are in shops next to top brands that are white white, it really does matter, because whiter boards sell better.
What foam are you using? Teccel?? Because if you are; I always thought their blanks were pretty white anyway. So If you can’t improve the whiteness by painting the blank (as surfteach mentioned) and it’s the color of the resin; There isn’t much you can do.
yep white over your lam will make it look milky…or worse. What you do is put the logo on after the lam and cover it with a clear patch of 4 oz.
On the pigment , tint, paint question…survey says it will never turn out . Either leave it alone…or get better materials. Don’t try to make something it will never be.
Im using Bennett dion foam, its definitely white enough so I cant complain. The resin is from teccel and apparently from what I have read its surfcel resin. Its pretty clear and my boards are not yellow-but I’d like them looking whiter and crisper if possible.
Resinhead, you have ���probably given the best bit of advice but materials where I am are not easy to get hold of. Obviously I want my boards to stand out and look as good as possible so as good as your advice is I’m likely not to take it. I’ll probably experiment with the pigment with a prototype that I am working on, it won’t be for sale so i wont lose anything if I mess up
yea adding a bit of white pigment made the logos a little miky. We used to call it the chalk look. Sanded finish no clearcoats. Most of the logos printed were gray so the over all look was kind of high tech.
Recently I have been doing boards in white opaque. Glass bottom free lap. Glas one layer of deck with zipper lap. Glass last layer with logo in clear free lap. Looks great.
I do add a lot of white. You can barely see the stringer.
Just another way of doing things. After 50 years of building boards one tends to get bored with the same old shit.
please continue this thread and photograph your results eh , 'livethe moment '? [because you are getting some good advice free of charge from some pro shapers , and I for one like to see the outcome , so we can all learn together]
It’s probably already in the resin that you’re using along with a UV inhibitor to keep the resin from browning as it’s exposed to sunlight. Resin formulated for surfboard production would most likely have OB and UVI. Same thing goes with PU blanks. Tinuvin also made by BASF is a UV inhibitor. http://product-finder.basf.com/group/corporate/product-finder/en/brand/TINUVIN
You can try chemical supply houses that specialize in additives for coatings and plastics or Google around the web to find 'em.
Cleanlines - i tried a G&S twin yrs ago and i still remember drop n in on my first multi finner ever! Btw that board had white pigment- it was sweet! Btw those boards you described sounded good.pls post a pic if you have one.
That said, i like the idea of a spraying of blank w acrylic to! How would a white foam stain be w aqua blue!!!?? F*ck i might try it!
This has been the subject of quite the technology race for the past 5 years. We’ve now reached a point where white is no longer acceptable, now they must glow white. Here is an example of the former “colored” blue white vs optically brightened white.
