Have you ever used 2 ounce cloth for a hand lamination? Care to comment? Pros cons… With other cloths? On foam or wood or sanded fiberglass? Easy to work with? Hard to wet out? Special weave?
Hand lam not Vac Bag…
…the main big problem that I found in these years, is the quality; no premium quality and mostly are Volan.
My experience… 2 oz sucks. It’s so light that it’s hard to keep from moving around and getting bubbles. Gotta work it more to get it saturated, and it can get messed up. Maybe if you use slow hardener and a brush to wet it out, but then you still will be pulling resin out with a squeegee. For ding repair, it will probably be OK.
2 ounce cloth question part B…
A good friend of mine just dropped off a 10’3" Joel Tudor longboard for some repairs. The board has some minor rail dings and a few rock craters. No big deal. The board has about 10 strees cracks running across the bottom. I told my friend that the stress cracks are most likely in the Gloss coat and not a big deal. The guy he bought the board from from said the cracks have been there for a long time…Maybe 10 years… Our plan is to make the board water tight. Seeing the stress cracks is no big deal. My plan is to put about 6 feet of 2 ounce cloth over the bottom of the board to seal off any problems and try to add as little weight as possible…what do you think?
Stingray
My brother did that. I think he sanded the board till the weave showed then added the 2 oz.
Maybe he’ll add some input.
I have a 9-4 HPLB that has the same problem, but I think there’s more than 10 stress cracks. I really like the board, and have made several others based on it’s rocker and tail shape.
The guys at Fiberglass Supply wanted to know what my plan was…I was told that most people using 2 ounce are doing Vac Bag. The cloth I bought is Volan…It was suggested to put resin down first, roll out the cloth and then more resin before squeege…The stuff I bought looks like tight weave. Maybe move slow and soak real good?
I’ve never tried it, but those rollers they use for resin work may also do the trick. The squeegee tends to pull on the cloth and that’s where we had the problems. A roller may pull less, I don’t know, I don’t use them. Putting resin down first might help. I did that when I glassed a balsa recently and the glass saturated faster.
I’m interested in how things work out. Maybe I can fix my old board and ride it again. I’m afraid mine will snap in half more than anything.
Ray, are U having problems trying to load more than 1 image?
I go to preview after I load the second image. Once I have all the images I want, I click on the second column of check boxes for the images I added, and save it.
Lot’s of computer problems…I will have a new computer before Thanksgiving…working on it right now!!!
Ray,
2oz. cloth works great for solid balsa boards.
Those cracks look like they go past Gloss coat. Brown color gives it away.
I would sand off as much Hot Coat and laminate the entire bottom with the 2oz.
Easier than blending in a short piece.
Re-Hot Coat and finish as normal.
Those rollers are only good for multiple layers like fin panels.
Shros is an old friend. And one hell of a good shaper.
Learned many shaping tips from him!
Same experience here.
Hate it for hand lam
Thanks Barry…That was kind of my general plan…nice to have some moral support…thanks
How about a proper spelling for Mr Shros??? and maybe how old do you think the board is?..
Stingray…
Two oz. cloth from Thayercraft has been my staple for years for personal boartds and for classes…In and out, RR QK…Hand lams all…Never a problem…Predictable is nice…
I have used 2 oz. before. I applied the resin with a weenie roller, working out from the middle. The cloth is like glassing with silk. Didn’t have any problems or issues. I think applying it over a glassed board will be easier than if you were applying over foam. When I do major repairs, I often re-glass with a layer of 2 oz. or 4 oz., like you’re doing. I got my 2 oz. from Pescadoloco, I’ve run out now and will be buying more soon. For certain things, I like it.
That would be Bill Shrosbree.
He has shaped for the best of them.
His list is impressive.
He and I shared a building for a while.
He was shaping Joels boards then.
That board is not all that old.
Maybe 10 years.
Ray;
Like Barry says, those cracks run all the way thru to the foam as shown by the discoloration of the foam where the salt water penetrated. I have seen these type cracks in my own longboards when the hot coat was too thick (usually mine) or not sanded properly (the glass shop) and the board used for a while so it can suck in salt water. If you sand down to the weave and then treat the cracks with styrene, you will have a sealed board. The glass overlay is just extra protection. Looking at the cut laps, there is probably 6 oz. on the bottom. 2 oz. added would be like a single volan cloth (7.5 oz, modern cloth) so the weight is not an issue. Just be sure to do a light hot coat or you will create the same problem! Just my 2c…
Ray, if you’re doing a hand layup of 6 foot x roughly 22 inches, the difference in weight between less than 2 square yards of 2 ounce, and less than 2 square yards of 4 ounce cloth, is really trivial. Plus you’re going to try to hand lam a tight weave cloth. Why make problems for yourself?
I’ve used 2 ounce cloth for ding repair, and I still have some left over, because it didn’t make much sense. The stuff wrinkles easily and its not as strong when you’re done as a repair with 4 ounce cloth. I think it’s fine for model airplane wings, but not so much for a longboard fix…
Your mileage may vary!
The rails are very solid. Very strong. I see a a good glass job…
So…styrene in the cracks…I’ve read that before. If you are in San Diego North County and you want to give me a Bro deal on a very small amount of Styrene that would be great…I don’t need more chemicals in my shop…Seeing the cracks is not an issue, Sealing the bottom is our goal…Thanks everyone! Ray