I was recently approached by a local Hawaiian paddler to make a special paddle for standup. As a long time standup paddler he has used carbon fiber paddles as well as several various wood versions over past years, including straight and double bent shafts with blades at various angles to the shaft. He wanted a “best of all worlds” paddle, something Hawaiian with “soul”.
At first I wasn’t sure if all he requested could be done. The parameters were:
- Crafted exclusively of solid Hawaiian koa wood
- A 14 degree blade to shaft with a bend-back handle (double bend shaft)
- No scarf joints in the shaft – continuous wood-grained shaft.
- Lightweight
- Flex
- Strength
- No fiberglass or carbon fiber – nothing commercial or high-tech.
- Functional in all water environments
- Beautiful enough to hang in his home as art
One of the fundamental laws of woodworking is to always “design around construction” instead of constructing around design, which is to say the piece must have structural integrity first, and the design must fit within. Having seen several broken wood paddles, I needed to achieve superior strength using solid hardwood, with weight being the enemy. True acacia koa wood grows naturally nowhere else in the world than Hawaii. As one of the most beautiful woods in the world, it is also one of the most expensive in the world. Since the 70s I’ve seen the price for koa wood rise from less than $1.50 bf to over $200 per bd. ft. for a recent exceptional board. I have a deep respect for koa and use it very sparingly and with much reverence.
My answer was to use bent-form laminations in the paddle shaft. About 25 years ago I began making the rockers for my chairs this way. You don’t have to steam-bend (which can affect the color f the wood), the grain of the wood stays virtually intact, and the “glue-lam” is infinitely stronger than cutting the rocker from a solid board. I ripped consecutive 3/16-” thick slices from a piece of 8/4 koa. Kept in sequential order, they were then glued and clamped in a custom-made form to attain the desired curves in the shaft. The laminations were cut quarter-sawn to achieve the most strength.
With nine coats of gloss marine varnish, each coat fully cured and sanded (a two week process), followed by polishing compound, and waxed, the instrument grade koa wood is very beautiful. Historically, Hawaiians preferred “ginger koa” or “banana koa” for their paddles, as the honey colored koa was lighter and less dense than the md. brown and reddish darker koa preferred for canoes. The carved tip on the blade is something I put on all my wall-hanger Hawaiian outrigger paddles, which was done historically as a protection for the delicate leading end of the blade. I was told by one Hawaiian - that this tip was also modified and sometimes used as a weapon and for hunting along the coast. Not as light as basswood, poplar, or even ash, it weighs 38 ounces and is exceptionally strong considering no fiber glass or epoxy. I took it out for test runs each morning this week and it checked out.
Fortunately, one of the parameters was not to make an economical paddle. There was quite a bit of labor involved, far more than a straight-shaft traditional outrigger paddle. I already have a few orders, but even at a very high price they are not profitable and not for everyone. However, they do represent all that is Hawaii, steeped in tradition, and soulfully fun to use. Anyway, just thought I’d share for those interested in experimenting with this method of construction.
Richard McCormick
