HELP!! Burning rails and Bleeding squeegees

General Discussion
1

Here’s my situation, I have lamenated the bottom with 1 layer 6oz. and the deck with 2 layers 6oz. cloth on a 6’ 4" rounded Pin with RR epoxy, all went great. Had a little trouble with my yellow squeegee, yellow pigment came bleed off the squeegee and into the epoxy. See

But that is not my problem, my problem is, while I was sanding the cut-laps I sanded through the rail. Look.

My question is on my solution, I plan to add 1 more layer of 6oz. cloth to the bottom. And because my cheap *@# squeegee bleed yellow into the lam job, can I add yellow tint to this next layer of cloth. Will this work or should I live with the yellowed rail.

Thanks

Nebulous / John

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2

Time to take a deep breath & AAAAAHHHH!!!

This happens to everyone ,over sanding is what makes most boards weak.

It does not look that bad.

I would wipe some denatured on it and do the small ding repair.

Put some small pieces of glass on the sand through and then blend.

Cosmeticly you can use colored resin, paint it with acrylic then gloss, or use fabric.

Just tape off the uglies and put a small finish coat on the rails.

Much cheaper and lighter than a whole new bottom coat.

Half the fun is making your mistakes look pretty.

Ian

5

Had some good advice for you, but like stingray I can’t seem to Post.

6

I have had my playtex living gloves bleed like that.

never had a yellow squeege doit.

you sanded perfect.the glass wasn’t down tight to the foam

the resin it was resting on is mostly still there.

I vot next layer of glass.

if’n ya wanna use lighter o.z. cloth swell

but the nex layer cloth will make a durability difference.

Tucking down that lap will make you feel better and better when you don’t see themm tell tales…

yello finger prints…

a point of departure

get glovesand make fingers in all the colors up and down the rail before you hot coat whadda color scheme…

…ambrose…

7

Hey Stringray,

I see that you tried posting a reply, but I see nothing in your post (no typing). Can you retry.

Ambrose, Ian and McDing, Thanks for your replies, I’m leaning to a 4oz. layer (yellow tint to hide the yellow pigment issues), but want to see what Stringray has to say. One more question, never done a epoxy tint or any kind of tint for that matter. Will evercoat pigment work with epoxy, the package says it is for epoxy & PU resin, picked it up at the local marine supply store. And how much should add to my epoxy, I’ve read much is not enough. Will the pigment have any adverse affect to the epoxy? Any thoughts.

Thanks

Nebulous

8

Not sure about the squeege…

I’m having the same problem with 6oz laps on an EPS/epoxy board. I filled the small holes with spackle ,let them dry over night and then did a repair with 4 oz.

Ambrose has it right. The laps are floating up in the resin. need to get them tighter on the rail.

I wrote a big explanation earlier but it came out blank…

Have a great day

Ray

9

Thanks Ray,

I’m going with another layer of 6oz. with yellow tint.

John

10

tint over clear

it makes the consistantly regulated thickness of the lamination

highly critical of thin and thick spots.

yellow is a good choice as it is less likely to show inconsistancies as bad as reds and blues which are classic for showing weak yecnique

the challenge is there make your lam down tight and dont oversand.

perhaps consider a yellow tint hot coat too.

the greatest of all actualities,dont sand or sand as little as possible.

make this the greatest 4oz lam of the 21st century

hot coat the best technical app of the epoch ,

sand with 600 paper and call violla at 808245 6001*

this is the road to appreciating a well executed tint…

basa does them unreal.

especially red tint wow hard!

the rail of a million fingerprints

is a serious option.

try as you may to make something perfect ,you as the builder will always be the first one to see the flaw. Sure the hot guys will see the three yellow areas

1’'x2.78 inches but anyone looking at the board will see the board not the digitality emblazoned rail.

draw a penline flower or 57 chevy hot rod drawing arround it

or a 49 chopped and channeled and lowered two door sedan

or a labradoor retriever or a laminate that says dodgers

all valid alternatives to the yallow .

remember any thing you do to fix the flaw can result in greater flaws

you can ‘’ fix ‘’ the prob but beware the gremlins in the creative process.

litting the chips fall where they may too is a learned skill.

tall tale:

the board will be known as the yellow fingerprint board to the archaeologists in 3075 when the unearth it in your burial mound with your bony hand clutching the best board that you got the best ride of your life on your birthdy when you turned sixtyfive at rincon with nobody out when they cleared the water out of respect for your saving the drowning crew of the ambassador’s dirigible when it crashed at carpenteria and you singlehandedly saved the ambassador and seven super models who you then married in Dubai where you were given honarary citizenship and an estate .

so much for seriousness … Im feeling better now.

…ambrose…

  • former weather recording at lihue air port…

how can I stand being serious for so many lines

I meaan only one strategic creative spelling gesture

am I ill?

11

I’ll try this again. Had a user/server problem before. Patch(ding repair the burn-thrus with 4-oz. Hotcoat the patches and sand them(by hand). Use two layers of 4 on the patches, one slightly bigger than the other. A 6 oz. patch is more likly to be visible when your done. Most of the time if a guy has burn-thrus it means he has also sanded too hard overall and has exsposed weave throughout the hotcoated board. You can take care of this problem by using what I call a “piss-coat”. Another hotcoat of thinned hotcoat resin(10-15% acetone). Then sand by hand. If you want to add the second layer of tinted 6 oz. fine. It will only hide a percentage of the over sanding though and may make some of the spots even more noticeable. The yellow is in all likihood a result of using cheap surgical gloves. I have never seen the hard plastic yellow sqeeges bleed.

12

I’ve had the yellow squeegies bleed. But only on rare occasions, and not frequently enough for me to remember to try to prevent it on the next board.

I quick wipe-down with Denatured alcohol before lamming would probably prevent that.

13

Glass with layers of 4 oz rather than 6 oz – it will cut the airs. I recently used some of the powerlite resin and it seemed less likly to have airs. I would say no on the tint – a very complex solution for a simple problem. Remove the yellowed glass by slowly and carefully scrapping down with a razor blade and a little sand paper – reglass that section – don’t over glass - sand. Then put down a second layer as planned. Oversanding the lap can be a problem if you have sanded across the single bottom layer – board rails with smash easily.

14

The guys are right about using lighter 4oz cloth to repair. Take their advice. As for the gloves, it looks like you probably used latex (dishwashing gloves?) instead of vinyl. Buy some vinyl gloves before going any further.