Anyone want to try and explain the process of shaping in a beak nose?
Should I shape the beak before or after rail bands?
Anyone got a good process??
Cheerz
2 Likes
Many different ways to skin a cat, all effective…
Either you start shaping the stringer into the desired beak shape, then do the rails bands, or do the rail bands first.
If your beak is a curve, maybe the first solution will be better. If it’s more of a straight line, the second.
Basically, I’m not sure it’s that important but then maybe someone more experienced than me will chime in.
1 Like
Haha there’s no one here more experienced than you!
The beak is a result of a hard down rail in the very nose, with a bit of thickness. The bottom edge is square, round the top to suit your taste.
BTW, this has been covered before, try searching rhe archives for more.
1 Like
Yeh cheers Huck… i did have a look at the archives on beaks and I probably should have made my original question/post a bit clearer.
Just trying to get head around how I should treat my rail bands (most of my boards I use two rail bands)…to “flatten” them through the nose to meet the “flattened” stringer.
Hard to describe… but with two rail bands I knock the “high point” between the bands down then use screen to finish … not sure how to treat that “high point” between the bands through the nose area so as to allow the rail bands to meet the stringer flat.
Does that make sense???
1 Like
I would just have all rail bands taper to zero at the nose, so you have a square end to the stringer at the tip of the nose. Then shape the beak to shape by eye looking at the profile. Lastly, blend that to to your rails, being careful to keep a pretty square edge at the bottom of the beak. A little radius for the glass to wrap.
1 Like