I was pointed at you guys from a furniture restoration forum on Facebook. I’m looking for some advice. I’ve recently acquired a stack of mid-century fiberglass arm chairs. These chairs were abused – left on a patio in the elements for decades. As a result, the fiberglass is very dried out, and the fiberglass fibers are exposed – even fluffy – in places. These chairs are fiberglass and polyester resin. I’m contemplating a few different possible restoration approaches and would love feedback – especially if you’ve done something like this before!
I clearly need to reseal the surface–right now the exposed fiberglassstrands make touching or sitting on the chairs an itchy experience to say the least. The chair seats are also very rough due to the density of the fiberglass strands.
I don’t know a lot about restoring fiberglass, but I’m hoping y’all here have opinions.
From my research, I’ve found a couple approaches that seem to make sense, but I would love opinions on other approaches as well as feedback on these:
Approach 1: Gently wet sand/trim exposed fluffy strands. Apply a clear sandable resin to the entire surface (top and bottom) – something like Ding All sanding resin – http://www.amazon.com/Ding-All-pt-Sanding-Res…/…/ref=sr_1_1… – let it cure, then wet sand down any rough areas and buff. Maybe use multiple layers of the resin finish, though I’m not sure how well it will adhere to itself.
Approach 2: Gently wet sand/trim exposed fluffy strands. Apply several layers of a marine grade clear coat (acrylic? urethane) – probably go for a spray can version to simplify application. Wet sand and buff.
I would give them a light coat of sanding resin. Once that hardens, sand with a medium to light grit paper (100-150) until it’s all nice and smooth and the loose fibers are gone. Once you have a nice smooth surface, do another coat with solid pigment to enhance appearance. Then wet sand and buff. I believe, that if you try to sand them as is you will just keep chasing loose fibers and get nowhere.
Might even want to put color in the first coat to get good coverage by the second one.
Thanks for the feedback. Would trimming some of the big fluffy clusters be ok?
I’m trying to avoid any pigment, since I don’t want to change the color of the chairs, and matching the original would be nearly impossible. Several of these are very valuable, and I want them as original as possible. Would using ultra clear sanding resin preserve the original color?
I was the one who sent you here. The advice you are getting is correct. I have restored several Herman miller shell chairs. If you brush on a coat of sanding resin the fluffy fibers will get saturated with resin and lay down. After that coat dries you can sand and apply another coat of resin.
You can also paint over the sanded finish. In my case I used clear lacquer as I wanted the chairs to look as original as possible.
I think I want to avoid lacquer and keep.the chairs as original as possible in terms of materials.
I assume you used lacquer to provide a shine? I’m wondering if wet sanding up to a very fine grit combined with buffing/polishing would have a similar effect.
I used the spray clear lacquer to provide shine. You can wet sand and buff if you want to spend the time. I did one like that and it took hours. Had to do it by hand as the surface is concave and the sander wouldnt work. Went from 320…400…600…1200 grit and then rubbing compound.
I have restored a lot of these chairs in my refinishing shop. It all depends on what you want.
I would suggest first coating the chairs wiyh a non sandable coat of resin and then a second coat of sandable resin. I think with the strands so exposed you would fill in the strands a little better and go from there.
Ok. I was thinking about picking up a 2" orbital sander for doing the interior–I’m hoping that it will be small enough to handle the interior curves. I’m wondering whether a typical 6-7" wool buffing pad will work for polishing with the rubbing compound, since it should conform to the curves.
artdecrpid – If I applied the non-sandable coat and then a sandable coat over top, I’d be afraid of sanding through the sandable coat into the non-sandable coat and leaving tacky spot. Is that not a concern?
I’m no expert, unlike cleanlines, who has a lifetime of experience working with fiberglass and resin. But I would say, if you sand through the finish coat, then apply another coat. To do the best job, be prepared to take your time. I would also plan on a significant amount of hand sanding the complex curves.
OK. These are collectibles so you want to preserve the original condition as best you can? Pigment is out, then. Plain old surfboard resin with UV inhibitor is your best bet. Sets about as clear as you’ll find and adds UV protection against further discoloration.
For sandind convex areas and other tight spots, a Fein tool or the Rockwell equivalent “Sonic Crafter” will save a lot of manual sanding. A random orbital is going to be too tricky on those curves and won’t fit in some spots.
No, not a concern at all. Laminating resin is used to apply fiberglass to an existing surface. There is no point in using it on those chairs. Polyester surfboard resin is described as an “air inhibited” type. Once you cover it with another layer and form a barrier to air it hardens completely. It’s the reason sanding resin can be sanded. A wax additive is used, which rises to the surface during cure time and forms a barrier. Even if you did bother using lam resin, it would not be sticky once you put a sanding coat over it. Just buy sanding resin and keep it simple. Lam resin isn’t needed for your application.
yea I sprayed two coats of clear acrylic lacquer instead of the wetsand polish thing. I was doing 8 chairs.I have also lacquered shell chairs in colors like orange. These original rope edge chairs are harder to find so you try to keep the parchment color.
I have had a lot of them over the years. Herman Miller made millions of fiberglass chairs. They were subbed out to a glass shop and molded like a boat hull. Great design.
